Central Joshua Tree Sport Routes 

Central Joshua Tree covers a vast area of wonderful climbs. This is a popular area and has many sport climbs, most of which are walking/biking distance from Hidden Valley Campground. Central Josh has many favorite spots for climbers; the slabs/face climbs of Echo Rocks area, the maze of climbs around Barker Dam, the impressive Comic Book Area, the excellent Oysterbar /Hall of Horrors routes, and one of the largest formations in the Park, Saddle Rock. This is an area which has been heavily explored for years, but climbers are still finding gems tucked away here and there; exploration is far from over in Central Joshua Tree. Some of these areas you will find other climbers at. Many of these areas you will have all to yourself. Joshua Tree National Park is a big place, and with 7000 climbs, there should be no reason to wait in line for a climb. As usually is the case, the further from the road you hike, the less likely you will see other people. Central Joshua Tree is an awesome place to climb and has some of Joshua Tree's best climbs. Whoever says Joshua Tree doesn't have any sport climbs needs to visit this area of Joshua Tree and sample some excellent sport routes of all grades.

 

Gordo's Picks (Some suggestions of quality routes which aren't too hard to find and very worth doing)

Baby

R.M.L. 5.8**
Sound of One Shoe Tapping 5.8
Pepasan 5.9*
Swing Low 5.7**
Inhaler 5.9*
Double Dip PG**
Black Tide 5.7 PG**
Go For Broke 5.8*
Electralux 5.9**
Black Rabbit 5.9**
H.R. Hardman 5.8*
Headstone SW Corner 5.7***
Headstone Rock/Cryptic 5.8**
Walk on the Wild Side 5.8 PG**
A Dog in the Ass 5.7+*
Houses of the Homeless 5.8+*
Arturo's Special 5.8*

Teenage

Bend Dover 5.10- **
C.S. Special 5.10b **
Out on a Limb 5.10b **
R.A.F. 5.9 **
Cliff Pounder 5.10b *
Forbidden Paradise 5.10b **
Heart and Sole 5.10-**
Return of the Chuckwalla 5.10c PG*
Playing Hookie 5.10a **
Shady Grove 5.10b **
Electra Glide 5.10b**
Humerous 5.10b**
Rick Rockwell 5.10b *
An Eye for an Eye 5.10b**
Mirage 5.10*
Lubricated Goat/Bish 5.10b/5.8+**
T N T 5.10b*
Shock Theropy 5.10+**
Barking Spider 5.10-*
Tiptoe to Toganga 5.10-**
 

Adult

Sicker Than Jezouin 5.11b*
When Lightning Strikes 5.11b/c**
Jane's Getting Serious 5.12b**
EBGBs 5.10+***
Sole Fusion 5.12a PG***
Street Sweeper 5.12a**
Revenge of the Chuckwalla 5.11c**
Electric Blue 5.11c **
Joyride 5.11c **
Physical Grafetti 5.10+/5.11-***
Sweet Ginger 5.11a**
Father Figure 5.12d**
Cleopatra 5.11a*
Love Nest Routes 5.11-5.12***
Visualize Whirlled Peas 5.10d*
Oyster Bar Routes 5.11***
Split Personality 5.11d***
Cactus Flower 5.11b**
Love Goddess Arete 5.12**
Janes Addiction 5.11b**
 

Key's Hill

Bartlett 2002 Supp p. 125
Get Shorty 5.11d**
3 bolts (no anchor)

Lost Mule Wall

Bartlett 2002 Supp p. 126
Nebraskan Rump Rangers 5.11a/b
bolts, FP, some gear needed (No anchor)

Idyllwild Dome

Bartlett 2002 Supp p. 127
Plum Duff 5.10c
4 bolts
Town Crier 5.8
2 bolts

Rockwork Orange Rock

Bartlett 2002 Supp. p. 127
Portly Pepper Pot 5.10c*
3 Bolts (Some gear needed) anchor on top

Echo Cove Rock

Bartlett p.11-19 Vogel p. 232-241
Gordon-Bartlett 5.11a* PG
4-5 bolts (some gear) No anchor
Sicker Than Jezouin 5.11a*
2 bolts (some gear) no anchor
Fear of God 5.11c*
2 bolts (anchor) some gear needed
Fear of Dogs 5.11a*
3 bolts to bolt anchor
R.M.L. 5.8**
3 bolts ( slings on top for anchor)
C.S. Special 5.10b**
4 bolts (sling anchor)
Possessed by Elvis 5.10c PG*
3 bolts (no anchor)
Flake and Bake 5.8+ PG*
crack(pro) to 2 bolts
Cactus Pricks 5.10b/c*
3 bolts (no anchor)
George's Route (AKA Texas Poodle BBQ) 5.9
sport Var. to Jay's route 3 bolts to anchor (gear needed at start)
Sitting Here in Limbo 5.9*
5 bolts (anchor)
Out on a Limb 5.10b/c**
5 bolts (anchor)
Crossroads (AKA Pinch a Smelly Ranger) 5.10c/d*
3 bolts (crack at top needs pro) No anchor
Misfits 5.11b PG**
3 bolts (crack at start needs pro) (anchor)
Route Rt. of Death on the Nile 5.10
Bolts
Borne Route 3 bolts 5.10-*
No anchor
Moetown 5.12a*
4 bolts (take a 2" cam)
Little Moe 5.11a*
2 bolts
Larry (AKA Out for Lunch) 5.11a**
1 bolt at the start, 1 bolt at the finish (2 separate finishes)
Curly 5.11a/b**
right finish
The Sound of One Shoe Tapping 5.8*
3 bolts (anchor)
Pepasan 5.9 PG
3 bolts (no anchor)
Battle of Britain (AKA Penelope Street) 5.10b PG*
4 bolts
R.A.F. 5.9 PG*
2 bolts (1 is for direct start) a piece of pro avaliable at top (Anchor at Swing Low)
Swing Low 5.7 **
5 bolts to anchor
Pig on the Wing 5.11b PG*
2 bolts (No anchor)
Tofu the Dwarf 5.9*
2 bolts (pro in Horizontal) No anchor
Santa's Little Helper 5.10d**
5 bolts (no anchor)
Solo Dog 5.11b PG**
3 bolts (some pro needed) anchor
Creator of the Universe (AKA Solitary Confinement) 5.11a PG/R
4/5 bolts, some pro needed (missing hangers?) No anchor
Jughead 5.10b PG*
3 bolts
Inhaler 5.9*
Bolts to anchor (one piece needed for crack at start)
When Lightning Strikes 5.11b/c**
5 bolts
Dungeons and Dragons 5.7/5.8
2 bolts
Ben Dover 5.10c
3 bolts (anchor)
The Pincher 5.9+
3 bolts (anchor)
Eileen Dover 5.10c/d
bolts to anchor (traverses right to left)

Echo Rock

Bartlett p. 20-23; Vogel p. 242-246

Echo Rock has lots of bolted climbs.... many are run-out and rated R or X. I have listed the ones that have better protection, but none are what you would call "sport" bolted; all have run-outs.

Highway 62 5.9 PG*
left to right traverse of Echo Rock Starts at Double Dip and Ends on Forbidden Paradise 13 bolts total (anchor)
Cliff Pounder 5.10b PG*
3 bolts (No anchor)
Double Dip 5.6 PG**
5 bolts (anchor)
Battle of the Bulge 5.11+*
4 bolts anchor
Black Tide (AKA Stichter Quits) 5.7 PG**
4 bolts (anchor)
Legolas 5.10c PG*
3 bolts (crack finish takes pro).
Chongo Nation 5.11 PG/R
4 bolts
Forbidden Paradise 5.10b**
6 bolts (anchor)
Fall from Grace 5.10b/c PG*
3 bolts (anchor)
Quick Draw Mc Graw 5.10a/b PG**
3 bolts (crack finish takes pro) anchor
Falcon and the Snowman 5.10b/c PG/R*
4 bolts anchor
Heart and Sole
3 bolts, crack finish take pro anchor
Love and Rockets 5.10b
4 bolts (total) anchor crack at top takes pro anchor
Tooth Beaver 5.10a PG/R
7 bolts anchor (walk off, don't lower; not enough rope)

E B G B's Formation

Bartlett p. 23-24 Vogel p. 244
Jane's Getting Serious 5.12b**
6 bolts (anchor)
E B G B's 5.10+ PG ***
5 bolts (anchor)
Tarzan 5.11b PG/R
2 bolts (anchor)
Life in the Fast Lane 5.10c/d PG*
4 bolts

Echo Rock South Face

Bartlett p. 25-28 Vogel p. 245-246
Feets Don't Fail Me Now 5.9 R*
2 bolts (No anchor)
Tucker-Powell 5.10a/b
3 bolts
Belgian Chongo 5.10a PG/R
1 bolt
Moment's Notice 5.6 R*
1 bolt
My Idea of Fun 5.13**
6 bolts
Sole Fusion 5.12a PG***
3 bolts
Sweet Sweeper 5.12a**
3 bolts, then meets Swept Away
Sept Away 5.11a PG***
2 pitches bolts (some pro needed)
Beadwagon 5.11a PG/R
A few bolts and 1 FP some pro needed
Igor, Prince of Poodles 5.11c*
4 bolts
Dances with Poodles 5.12a*
3 bolts
Gumby Saves Bambi 5.10d PG*
5 bolts (some gear)
Mother Trucker 5.10a PG
2 bolts

Mounds

Bartlett p. 28 Vogel p. 247
Behind the Green Door 5.10d*
3 bolts
Caliguala 5.9*
2 bolts

Little Hunk- Southwest Face (left)

Bartlett p. 29-30 Vogel p. 247
Top 40 to Middle Toilet 5.9 R
2 bolts
Go for Broke 5.8 PG*
3 bolts
Crash Course 5.10b PG*
4 bolts
Tresspassers Will be Violated 5.10c PG/R
bolts
Torcher's Apprentice 5.10b/c PG*
Gun Shy 5.11b PG*
Groundhog Day 5.11c*
11 bolts
Official Rubber Tester 5.12a PG*
Compassion of the Elephants 5.10c R
(run-out)
Connie's Big Step 5.10c*
5 bolts

Little Hunk Southwest Face (Center)

Bartlett p. 30 Vogel p. 247
Abstract Roller Disco 5.11a PG*
bolts
Tin God 5.10d PG/R*
3 bolts
Ma and Pa 5.10-* and 5.10+*
These two routes are at the right end of Little Hunk So. Face The left one is the easier of the two, and you need some gear (anchor) The right one you just need QD's (anchor)

Little Hunk NE Face (left)

Bartlett p. 32 Vogel p. 250
Archer-Friedgen 5.11a/b*
3 bolts (No anchor)
Cheez-it 5.10d PG
2 bolts
Groove Avoidance System 5.10-*
This former TR now has 3 bolts
The Runnel 5.9*
2 bolts

The Chair

Bartlett p. 32-33 Vogel p. 250
Ladder Back 5.10bPG
2 bolts (anchor)
Ordinary Route 5.11a R*
1 bolts (anchor)
Take a Seat 5.1b PG
1 bolt (may get a piece in down low) Anchor

Little Hunk NE Face (Center)

Bartlett p. 33 Vogel p. 250
Revenge of the Chuckwalla 5.11c**
4 bolts
Return of the Chuckwalla 5.10c PG**
Swain-Buckey 5.10d PG**
4 bolts
Playing Hooky 5.10a PG**
3 bolts
Shady Grove 5.10b PG**
4 bolts

Little Hunk NE Face (right)

Bartlett p. 34-35 Vogel p. 248
Approaching Disrythmia (AKA One Bolt for Bonzo) 5.8 R
1 bolt
Disrythmia 5.12a**
5 bolts
The New Deal 5.13d**
9 bolts (anchor)
Team Scumbag 5.10b PG *
3 bolts
Blues Traverer 5.10c/d**
4 bolts (anchor)
ZZZZZZZZZZZ 5.9 R
2 bolts
Electric Blue 5.11c/d**
5 bolts
Shock to the System (AKA Blue Diamond) 5.10c/d*
4 bolts (maybe a piece at the top of the flake)
Electra Glide 5.10b *
bolts (anchor)
Electralux 5.9
bolts (anchor)

Big Hunk South Face

Bartlett p. 36 Vogel p. 250
Cryogenics 5.11c**
3 bolts

Big Hunk NE Face

Bartlett p. 37
Claw Marks 5.10a/b*
2 bolts (anchor) Pro down low needed

Snickers North Face

Bartlett p. 38-39 Vogel p. 252
Joyride 5.11c*
8 bolts (anchor)
Humerous 5.10b**
4 bolts some gear needed (anchor)
Fresno 5.10a*
4 bolts (some gear needed)
Disobedience School 5.10-*
3 bolts, anchor some gear needed for crack in middle

Little Rock Candy Mountain W. Face

Bartlett p. 39 Vogel p. 254
Euro Route 5.11
bolts There is a sport route on the left side of the west face

Snickers So. Face

Bartlett p. 41-42 Vogel p. 256
My Balls Feel like a Pair of Marachas 5.9*
2 bolts and 2 FP (anchor) (On spire above 3 Muscateers)
When You're Not a Jet 5.10b PG
2 bolts (No Anchor)
When You're Erect 5.12a *
4 bolts
Iron Maiden 5.11d PG**
2 pitches bolts
Packed with Peanuts 5.11c
3 bolts
Extra Chunky 5.10b PG
2 bolts
Sweet Ginger 5.11a**
6 bolts
Somebody Else's Nightmare (AKA Sweet Eternity) 5.11c R
4 bolts 1 FP
Swimming in a Sea of Deception 5.8
3 bolts
Art of Deception 5.11b/c
4 bolts
Sun Bowl 5.12/5.13**
3 bolts

Bed Rock

Bartlett p. 48 Vogel p. 273
Evolutionary Throwback 5.10c/d PG*
3 bolts, 1 FP
Moondance 5.13 a/b PG*
3 bolts (anchor)

Escape Rock

Bartlett p. 49 Vogel p. 274
Exit Stage Right 5.9 PG*
3 bolts
Farewell Ambassador 5.10a/b*
4 bolts
Psoriasis 5.9 PG*
3 bolts
Ballbearings Under Foot 5.11a
3 bolts
Ric Rockwell 5.10- *
bolts (some pro needed at top) Rap from tree off left

Lakeside Rock

Bartlett p. 51-52 Vogel p. 276-277
Coyote Eggs 5.11a R
6 bolts
An Eye for an Eye and a Route for a Route 5.10b**
7 bolts (anchor)
Laura Scudders 5.10b*
3 bolts
Patricide 5.11a/b*
2 bolts
Father Figure 5.12d
4 bolts
Factor One 5.13 a/b PG**
5 bolts

Rat Rock/ Oasis Rock

Bartlett p. 52-53 Vogel p. 277
Homowack 5.9
3 bolts
Bad Lizards 5.10a*
6 bolts
Mirage 5.10b*
2 pitches 8 bolts (anchor)
The Arraignment 5.10a
5/6 bolts
Tora Bora 5.11c**
8 bolts (no anchor) Direct Start 5.10d (2 more bolts)
Oasis of Eden 5.10d PG/R *
4 bolts to anchor (gear at start?) Direct start (5.10d) 2 more bolts
The Way it Should Be 5.10a/b PG
4 bolts to anchor
Lubricated Goat 5.10b**
9 bolts (anchor) watch ropes on rappel
Bish 5.8+**
2 pitches bolts, 1 FP, and large cam for wide crack

Room to Schroom Area

Bartlett p. 54 Vogel p. 278
Shoeless Joe Jackson 5.10-
bolts, FP (tree anchor)

Hunk Rock W. Face

Bartlett p. 54-55 Vogel p. 267
Three Men and a Baby 5.12a**
4 bolts (no anchor)
The Mad Men 5.10a PG
4 bolts

Hunk Rock E. Face

Bartlett p. 55 Vogel p. 269
Heat Wave 5.9 R/X
1 bolt
Hunkloads to Hermosa 5.9 PG
2 bolts
SoftCell 5.10c/d PG*
5 bolts
Hunky Dory 5.10a PG
4 bolts (anchor)

Dissolution Block

Bartlett p. 56 Vogel p. 279
Whoa, Hmmmmm, Ahhhhhhhh 5.10a
3 bolts (anchor)
Marital Sin 5.10c/d PG**
2 bolts (anchor)

Comic Book Area

Bartlett p. 60-69 Vogel p. 259-265

Sphinx Rock

Bartlett p. 60 Vogel p. 260
Cleopatra 5.11b PG
6 bolts (anchor)
Cherry Blossom 5.9+ PG
3 bolts
Don't Touch That Flake 5.9 PG
2 bolts

Mary Worth Buttress

Bartlett p. 61 Vogel p. 260
Distant Episode 5.10c PG/R
4 bolts
Bottle in Front of Me 5.10a PG
6 bolts
Cerebral Dysfunction 5.10a R
3 bolts
Welcome to Joshua Tree 5.10b/c PG/R **
2 pitches bolts, some pro needed
Ooby Dooby 5.10a PG
3 bolts

B C Buttress

Bartlett 2002 supplement p. 138
Seriously Shady 5.9
3 bolts

Comic Strip N. Face

Bartlett p. 62 Vogel p. 261
Stoli Driver 5.10d PG*
3-4 bolts
Gumby Poindexter 5.10a/b PG *
4 bolts (anchor)
Silver Lining 5.11b/c ***
5 bolts (crack finish)

The Comic Strip S.W. Face

Bartlett p. 63-64 Vogel p. 261
Circus Act 5.10b/c PG
bolts (2 rope rap)
Invisible Man 5.11a PG/R
bolts, pitons needed for the second pitch
Pacific Coast Hwy 5.8 PG
4 bolts to rap station

Alice Rock

Bartlett p. 64 Vogel p. 263
White Rabbit 5.10a PG/R
2 bolts (run-out)
Black Rabbit 5.9+
4 bolts

Sinagar Rock

Bartlett p. 65
The Hardest Route in the World 5.12+**
6 bolts (some pro) anchor

Watergate Rock

Bartlett p. 67-68 Vogel p. 264
I am Not a Crook 5.8 PG
2 bolts (no anchor)
White Collar Crive 5.8 PG
2 bolts
H.R. Hardman 5.8*
4 bolts
T.N.T. 5.10b/c*
4 bolts anchor
Dirty Tricks 5.11d*
4 bolts
Malicious Deception 5.11b*
2 bolts (then joins Dirty Tricks at it's 3rd bolt)
T. Gordon Liddy 5.11a/b*
3 bolts

Love Nest

Bartlett p. 71 Vogel p. 358
Adolsecent Behavior 5.11b/c**
3 bolts anchor
We Don't Need No Sticnkling Badges 5.11b/c ***
6 bolts (anchor)
Boys Don't Cry 5.12a***
6 bolts anchor
Shakin' Like Milk 5.11a 5.11b/c ***
The Accidental Purist 5.10a PG
2 bolts on boulder (anchor on top)

Planet X

Bartlett p. 71 Vogel p. 359
Planet Z 5.10d
1 FP, 2 bolts (thin pro at start)
Subway to Venus 5.11+*
4 bolts
Planet Clair 5.10+*
5 bolts
Saturn Sheets 5.9 PG
2 bolts

Cap Rock

Bartlett p. 72-74 Vogel p. 360-362
Flying Burrito 5.9 PG
1 bolt (some pro needed) No anchor
Hickory Wind 5.10b PG
1 FP and 1 bolt No anchor some pro needed
Eat Bertha's Muscles 5.10a*
2 bolts (some pro needed) no anchor
Robocop 5.9 PG*
4 bolts anchor
The Terminator 5.9 PG
4 bolts anchor
Dunce Cap 5.13**
4 or 5 bolts anchor
Nobody Walks in L.A. 5.8*
2 bolts (pro for start)
Tumbling Dice 5.10a/b*
2 bolts (some pro needed) anchor
Circus Midget 5.10d PG
3 bolts
Ayatollah 5.11a*
3 bolts (anchor)
Anniversary Special 5.7
2 bolts no anchor

Beaver Boulder

Bartlett p. 74 Vogel p. 361
Beaver Boulder Free Route 5.10d*
1 bolt (anchor)

John Yablonski Rock

Bartlett p. 75 Vogel p. 364
Heartbreak Ridge 5.8 PG
2 bolts (no anchor)
Simmer Down 5.11b***
4 bolts
Guns in the Sky 5.11a*
2 bolts

Top Hat Rock

Bartlett p. 76 Vogel p. 364
Cruise Control (AKA Top Hat) 5.10b/c PG
Too Strong and a Tweener 5.11a
2 bolts
Incisor 5.11+*
3 bolts

Rabbit Warren

Bartlett p. 77 Vogel p. 364
Little Bunny Fu-Fu 5.7 PG
2 bolts

Ryan Campground

Bartlett p. 78-80 Vogel p. 369
Slightly Ahead of Our Time 5.12a*
bolt ladder which was freed (anchor)
Camp Whore 5.11a
2 bolts
Nolan Ryan 5.8
2 bolts (no anchor)
Allen Steck Memorial Route 5.8+
2 bolts
The Almighty (AKA Might High) 5.12a*
2 bolts
Deception 5.10a/b*
2 bolts (no anchor)

Lost Rocks

Bartlett 2002 supplement p. 142
Memory Loss 5.10 or 5.11
2 bolts

Headstone Rock

Bartlett p. 79-80 Vogel p. 370-371
S.W. Corner 5.7***
4 bolts (anchor)
Cryptic 5.8+***
3 bolts (anchor)
Cutting Edge 5.13a***
4 bolts (anchor)

Mortar Pillar

Bartlett 2002 Supplement p. 142
Beat the Vulture
2 bolts (crack finish)

Partway Rock

Bartlett p. 80
Off Ramp 5.11a*
4 bolts
Fabio 5.10c
3 bolts (No anchor on top)

Halfway Rocks

Bartlett p. 81
Texas Speed Blues 5.9
3 bolts (crack needs pro at top)

Target Rock S.W. side

Bartlett p. 82-83 Vogel p. 373
Hollow Point 5.8 PG
2 bolts (anchor)
Heffalump 5.4 PG
1 bolt (anchor)
Connect the Dots 5.10a
4 bolts to anchor
You Missed 5.10a PG
3 bolts (1 bolt anchor)
Visualize Whirled Peas 5.10d PG**
3 bolts (no anchor)
Ren 5.9
4 bolts
Smears for Fears (AKA Poodle Pile ) 5.10a
4 bolts

Conrad Rock

Bartlett p. 84 Vogel p. 373
Up Chuck 5.7
2 bolts
I Blew My Hole 5.9*
4 bolts

Scary Rock

Bartlett p. 84 Vogel p. 374
Echo of a Scream 5.10a PG
2 bolts

Keith's Wall

Bartlett p. 84
Bruckner's Boogie 5.10a
3 bolts

Split Personality Rock

Bartlett p. 85 Vogel p. 374
5150 5.10b*
4 bolts
Shock Therapy (AKA Straight Jacket ) 5.10c/d***
4 bolts
Split Personality 5.11d***
5 bolts

Agent Orange Rock

Bartlett p. 85 Vogel p. 375
Iron Curtain 5.11c**
4 bolts (anchor)
Bloody Knuckles 5.10b/c
3 bolts

Oyster Bar

Bartlett p. 86 Vogel p. 375
Baby Face 5.7 PG
2 bolts
Boner Doner 5.10a PG
3 bolts, 2 FP (no anchor)
Stress Puppet 5.10a PG
4 bolts, 1 FP (anchor)
Path of the Oyster (AKA Oysters from Heaven) 5.11c***
4 bolts (anchor)
I Saw Elvis 5.12a**
3 bolts of Oysterbar and last two bolts of Path of the Oyster
The Oyster Bar (AKA Oyster Delicacy) 5.11b***
5 bolts (anchor)
Buckets of Blort 5.10c *
3 bolts

Saddle Rocks

Bartlett p. 87-92 Vogel p. 376-379
Pinnalcle Aerobics 5.11a*
4 bolts (anchor)
I Smell a Rat 5.10b
6 bolts
Raging Bull Dike 5.11d**
4 bolts
Iconoclast 5.13
bolts (anchor)
Where Have all the Cowboys Gone 5.10d***
2 ptiches, first pitch needs some pro (anchor)
Santa Cruz 5.9***
2 pitches, first pitch needs some pro
R and R 5.8 PG
rebolted and retrobolted
Marlboro Man 5.10c*
3 bolts
New route 5.8
New route 5.8
Silver Spur 5.12**
bolts (some gear needed)
Bosch Job 5.11d*
2 pitches
Lone Pine 5.11a*
6 bolts
High Cost of Living 5.11 PG*
2 pitches
Rough Riders 5.11b*
2 pitches
Walk on the Wild Side 5.8 PG**
2 pitches
Cole-Anderson 5.10a/b*
9 bolts to anchors
The Kid 5.9
5 bolts (run-out)
Saddlehorn 5.8
2 bolts
Saddle Sores ( AKA Do Rein Me ) 5.9*
4 bolts
Landlord 5.10d*
many bolts
Chicks for Free 5.12b***
Walk on the Steep Side 5.10a/b
(anchor)
Music to my Smears 5.7+
3 bolts (anchor on top)
Poodlephile 5.9**
5 bolts to anchor
Baby Fae 5.11a
2 bolts
5.11+ Arete
bolts
Dirty Minds 5.11a
4 bolts (anchor)
Eileen 5.7
3 bolts to 2 bolt anchor (spire)
Never Shake a Baby 5.9+
3 bolts to anchor (one piece needed at start)
Charleton Heston is My President 5.8
3 bolts to anchor
Ride the Cotton Pony 5.11-
bolts anchor (one piece needed at bottom) 2 raps off

Hall of Horrors

Bartlett p. 93-103 Vogel p. 380-387
Garden Angels 5.10a
3 bolts (anchor)
Cactus Flower 5.11b/c**
3 bolts (anchor)
This is only a Test 5.12*
1 bolt var. to Cactus Flower
My Senior Project 5.9 PG
2 bolts
Pull My Finger, Barbera 5.11a/b
3 bolts (anchor)
House of Games 5.11b/c
3 bolts
Ungawaa 5.11a/b
2 bolts
Houses of the Homeless 5.9
3 bolts (anchor)
A Dog in the Ass 5.7+*
bolts (anchor) Piton in a hole at the start.

North Horror Rock (W. Face)

Bartlett p. 95 Vogel p. 382
Lippo Suction 5.10a
3 bolts
Facelift 5.11c*
4 bolts anchor on top
Doomsday 5.9+
4 bolts
Creature Feature 5.11b*
4 bolts
Hellraiser 5.10a*
5 bolts
Hellion of Troy 5.11a*
4 bolts (uses first bolt of Hellraiser)

Hall of Horrors (E. Wall, N. End)

Bartlett p. 97 Vogel p. 383-385
Guardian Angels 5.10a*
4 bolts
Barking Spiders 5.10a
4 bolts (anchor)
Lenore Goldberg 5.8./5.9
2 bolts
Just Say Yo 5.9
2 bolts (pro at start)
The Antichrist (AKA Small Town, Big Girls) 5.11a
3 bolts
Love Goddess 5.12a**
4 bolts
Moonshadow 5.12c**
5-6 bolts
La Cholla 5.12a**
8 bolts
Smurf's Up 5.11b/c
3 bolts

Hall of Horrors E. Rock, W. Face Right

Bartlett p. 100 Vogel p. 385
Casual 5.9*
3 bolts (no anchor)
Doin' Life 5.10a PG*
3 bolts (crack start) no anchor
Search for Klingons 5.7 PG*
2 bolts (crack start) No anchor

Hall of Horrors W. Rock, E. Face

Bartlett p. 101 Vogel p. 386
Always on My Mind 5.10c
3 bolts
Smashing Pumpkins 5.12b*
3 bolts
Jane's Addiction 5.11b***
4 bolts , 1 FP
Avant Chain 5.12a*
4 bolts (anchor)
Shaking Hands with the Unemployed 5.19+ PG/R
2 bolts (some gear?)
Avant Cave 5.11c**
3 bolts (some gear?) Anchor
Avant Yvonne (AKA Read My Flips) 5.11a**
3 bolts
Avante 5.10d/5.11a PG*
1 bolts (some gear?)

Real Hall of Horrors

Bartlett p. 102 Vogel p. 386
No Options 5.11b
3 bolts
Stempede 5.11*
3 bolts
Gridlock 5.11*
bolts (left route)
Good Investment 5.12a*
bolts (middle route)
Gridiron 5.12a *
bolts (right route)

Hall of Horrors W. Wall, W. Face

Bartlett p. 102 Vogel p. 387
Ledges to Lawndale 5.11a PG*
2 bolts (some gear)

King Dome

Bartlett p. 103-104 Vogel p. 388
Cosmic Dance of Sheba 5.10c *
4 bolts
Derek's Route 5.10c*
3 bolts some gear needed at start and finish of climb (No anchor)
Arturo's Special 5.8*
4 bolts (anchor)
Tiptoe to Topanga 5.10-**
bolts to anchor
Mission Impossible 5.11b PG*
5 bolts (some gear)
Friction Impossible 5.12a
5 bolts (some gear)
The Little King 5.9 PG
2 bolts (left route)
King's Ransom 5.10a/b*
4 bolts (right route)
Triumph Arch 5.11d PG*
4 bolts

Rocks So. of Hall of Horrors (Not in any guide)

Serf City 5.8+ *
2 bolts (a piece or two needed)
Tomb Raiders 5.11-*
4 bolts to anchor (one piece needed)

Grottos Rock

Bartlett p. 104 Vogel p. 392
Wait Until Dark 5.10b*
3 bolts anchor

Cavern Rock

Bartlett p. 105 Vogel p. 392
Use a Gun , Go to Jail 5.9+ PG*
3 bolts to anchor
Enter at YOur Own Risk 5.8 PG
3 bolts

Junk Clump, N. Face

Bartlett p. 105
Black Water 5.10a/b
3 bolts

Cave Rocks

Bartlett p. 107-110 Vogel p. 389-391
The Sound of Risha's Ears Flapping 5.10b
4 bolts
Chocolate Chips (AKA Omaha Beach) 5.9 PG
2 bolts
Happy Meal 5.10b*
4 bolts and 1 FP (anchor)
Shifting Sands 5.11b
2 bolts (some gear?)
Shaggy Dog (AKA Route 1056) 5.9*
5 bolts to anchor

Sheep Pass Campground

Bartlett p. 110-114 Vogel p. 392-394
Sunnyside Campground 5.7
2 bolts
Tiny Dancer 5.6
2 bolts
Time Warp 5.11 PG
3 bolts

Wailing Sax Wall

Bartlett p. 111-112 Vogel p. 393
In a Silent Way 5.11+
5 bolts (gear at start?)
Made in the USA 5.11a*
5 bolts (bolts on top)
Maiden Voyage 5.11a PG
4 bolts some gear

Wedding Wall

Bartlett p. 113 Vogel p. 393
Something's Burning
5.11b 3 bolts
Betta Wed Than Dead
5.10b/c 3 bolts
Turkey Terror 5.9*
2 bolts (no anchor)

Television Wall/ Hob Knob Wall

Bartlett p. 114 Vogel p. 393-394
Prime Time 5.10a
2 bolts (Some gear needed) No anchor

Small World Cliff

Bartlett p. 115 Vogel p. 394
Dwarf Star ( AKA Aftershock) 5.10c
4 bolts
Mr. Wizard 5.12a*
5 bolts to anchor