This area is one of the least visited, least developed, and least documented areas of the Park. Many of the climbs are quite remote and require a bit of hiking and exploring to get to. These climbs remoteness and wilderness settings have much to do with their appeal. One reason why this area is one of the least documented areas is because this is the only area which has not been documented by an Al Bartlett mini-guide. Randy covered these areas in his awesome Rock Climbing Guide to Joshua Tree, but that book is now 14 years old, and until Randy's new guide to this area is out (some years from now.....), these areas will retain much of their mystery and mystic. Here is where this guide comes in handy. This guide can fill in the blanks, find some of the missing pieces, and keep up-dated when needed. Queen Mountain is a wild, vast, complex and remote area. This web sport guide is a big project, and will take a while to get to where I want it to be at (Text, maps, photos). Be patient keep checking , and sooner or later (probably later....), it will happen. I will give it my best shot at producing a complete (as possible) sport guide to Joshua Tree National Park, but it will not be done over night. Remember not to go up on most of these climbs with just a rack of quick draws; many need supplemental protection gear or gear to make an anchor. be careful, be safe, check your harness, and check your knot. If you have any thought in your head that climbing at Joshua Tree is crowded, then visit these areas; you probably won't see other climbers, and if you do, you will be happy to see them so you don't feel so all alone. Wild wilderness areas seem to be getting less wild and less wilderness each year. We are very fortunate to have these very wild areas still in our "backyards" and at our fingertips ; literally.
Gordo's Picks |
Easy - Dik Dik 5.8* Happy Birthday, Rrrrren 5.5*
- Tie Your Mother Down 5.7*
- A-Goo 5.6*
- Stairway to Kevin 5.7*
- The Black Eel 5.9*
| Solid - Demon Dome N E Face Routes 5.9*
- Treasure of the Sierra Madre 5.10+***
- Elvis Impressionists and Traveling Priests 5.10-*
- Bury the Pickle 5.10b**
- Eat Me, Volume 23 5.10-**
- Get the Balance Right 5.10 **
- Georgia O'Keefe 5.10-*
| Rad Shit - Black Diamond 5.12b****
- Hot Lava 5.11a**
- Dictators of Anarchy 5.12c**
- New World Order 5.13b**
- Apollo 5.12c **
- Times of Holyness 5.11c **
- Cosmic Trigger 5.13a**
- Sensory Deprivation 5.12b**
- I Have the Touch 5.12d ***
- White Rain 5.11a R *****
- Black Diamond 5.12b*****
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Queen Mountain Vogel p. 332-355 Kate's Crag Area Vogel p. 337- The Schlong 5.11a
- 4 bolts to anchor (1/4 in. bolts and suspect rock)
Dreamscape Dome Vogel pl 342 - The Gem 5.10b
- 2 bolts
- Perfect World 5.10b**
- 2 bolts
- The Shark Fin 5.10c
- 3 bolts
Olympic Dome Vogel p. 345 - Black Diamond 5.12b****
- Elvis Lives 5.11d
- 4 bolts
Slab Dome Vogel p. 345 - Slab Happy 5.9**
- 4 bolts
- Unknown 5.10b
- 4 bolts
Cirque of the Climbables Vogel p. 347-348 - Remain in Light 5.10a**
- Treasure of the Sierra Madre 5.10d ****
- 4 bolts, 1 FP
- Labyrinth 5.10a
- 2 bolts
- Slab and Tickle 5.10b**
- 2 bolts
- Rei Momo 5.10b*
- 2 bolts
Upper Walt's Rocks Vogel p. 353 - White Rain 5.11a*****
- 6 bolts (some pro?) run out sections
Humpty Dumpty Area Vogel p.354 - Frog Hair 5.10b**
Geology Tour Road Vogel p.396-421 Demon Dome (NE Face) Vogel p. 400 There are 8 climbs on the NE Face of Demon Dome 3 could be called sports routes - Cyanide Life 5.9*
- 2 bolts, 2 FP to anchor
- Mantclair 5.9*
- 4 bolts to anchor
- Bee's Swarm 5.9
- 3 bolts
Two Bolt RockVogel p. 397 - Two Bolt Rock Route 5.9
- 2 bolts (Pro in horizontal)
- Leather Communtiy 5.9*
- 2 or 3 bolts
Lava Dome Vogel p. 401 - Hot Flashes 5.11c
- 2 bolts
- Dik Dik 5.8+*
- 2 or 3 bolts (No anchor)
Island in the Stream Vogel p. 402 - Message in a Bottle 5.10c
- 3 bolts
- Adrift 5.11b
- 4 bolts
- Sharks in the Water 5.10c
- 2 bolts
- Whisper When You Scream 5.9
- 3 bolts
Galapagos Vogel p. 404-405 - Ennui 5.10b
- 3 bolts
- Happy Birthday , Rrrrrren 5.4*
- 2 bolts
- The Praying Monkey 5.4*
- 1 bolt to 2 bolt anchor
- The Pink Dolphin 5.8*
- 3 bolts
- Elvis Impersonators and Traveling Priests 5.10a*
- 5 bolts (anchor)
Jerry's Quarry/Lost Pencil Vogel p. 406-407 - Elephant Walk 5.11d**
- 5 bolts
- Milk Arete 5.10d **
- 2 pitches 3 or 4 bolts on first (crux) pitch, 3 or 4 bolts on 2nd pitch (anchor on midway ledge, none on top)
- A-Goo 5.7*
- 4 bolts to anchor
- Tie Your Mother Down 5.7*
- 4 bolts to anchor
Solomon Islands(Southern most formation) Not in any guide - Bury the Pickle 5.10b**
- 4 bolts to anchor
- Black Eel 5.9*
- 4 bolts to anchor
- Eat Me Volume 23 5.10b**
- 4 bolts to anchor
Lost Pencil Vogel p. 407 - Weasel Boys Arete 5.12*
Keith's Rock Vogel p. 410 - Keith's 10,000 Girlfriends 5.10-*
- 2 o3 bolts, 1 FP anchor on top
- Keith's Ripped Back 5.7
- 1 or 2 bolts anchor
The Ski Slope Vogel p.410 - Eight Signs of a Shaky Marriage 5.10d**
- 3 bolts (some gear needed)
- Randy the Riveter 5.8
- 1 bolt
- Reconstructive Surgery 5.10a
- 2 bolts
Lechlinski Cracks Vogel p.411 - Black Nipple Fetish 5.11b**
- 4 bolts
Volcano Boulder Voge p. 412 - Hot Lava 5.11a**
- bolts
- No Nuts, No Huevos 5.9
- 5 bolts (to rappel bolt)
Road Kill Rock Vogel p. 412 - Hair on My Tread 5.11b
- 3 bolts
- Sharp Desire 5.8
- 5 bolts
Human Sacrifice Boulder Vogel p. 413 - Dictators of Anarchy 5.12c ****
- New World Order 5.13b ****
- 6 bolts (anchor)
- Cat in the Hat 5.10a
- 3 bolts
- Raker's Blaring Hat Rack 5.10d**PG
- anchor
- Edge of the Knife 5.8*
- bolts to anchor
Perpetual Motion Area Vogel p. 414 - Georgia O'Keefe 5.10b*
- 4 bolts to anchor
- Soapy Tit Wank 5.10+ *
- 5 bolts
Star Wars Area Vogel p. 415 - Apollo 5.12c***
Diamond Clump Vogel p. 416 - Gemstoner 5.10a
- 2 bolts (anchor)
East Virgin Islands Vogel p. 418 - Diaper Challenge 5.11c
- 5 bolts
- Goofy Arete 5.10c
- 3 bolts
Cat Pinnacle Vogel p. 421 - Memorial Meowzer 5.10c
- 4 bolts
That Little Doodad Boulder Unit Vogel p. 421 - Dik da Doodad 5.10c *
- Dike with 2 bolts
Desert Queen Mine Vogel p. 424-431 The Gold Nuggets Vogel p. 425 - Fear of Music 9 bolts
- (some pro needed)
- Once in a Lifetime 5.7
- 5 bolts
The Tailings Vogel p. 425 - Taunting Fear 5.11d
- bolted face (anchors)
Noodle Rock Vogel p. 426 - Houses in Motion 5.10*
- 4 bolts (anchor)
- Listening to Wind 5.10c
- 3 bolts (anchor)
Mother Lode WallVogel p. 427 - Unruly Camel 5.11a
- 4 bolts (Traverse in at 2nd bolt.... direct is still A1)
Queen Crimson Dome Vogel p. 428 - Manwich Queen 5.8
- 3 bolts (some pro)
- Desert Profit 5.11d**
- 8 bolts (anchor)
- Hallowed Ground 5.11a**
- 5 bolts (anchor)
Roman Rocks Vogel p. 429 - Caesar 5.10b
- 2 bolts
Dike Rock Vogel p. 429 - Dike a' Rama 5.11a
- 2 bolts (some gear)
- Unknown 5.10c
- slab with bolts
Shopping Block (Not in any guide) On top of hill just behind mine openings (As you hike to upper formations) - Power Shopping 5.10-*
- a couple of bolts (anchor) This is the left route.
- Mane Resolution 5.11+*
- 3 or 4 bolts on vertical dike (anchor) Right route.
Desert Queen Dome Vogel p. 429 - Get the Balance Right 5.10**
- 3 bolts
- All-Reet Arete 5.8
- 2 bolts
The Towers Vogel p. 430 - Xenalmorph 5.10c
- bolted face (anchors)
- Times of Holyness 5.11c ***
- bolted face (anchors)
Fraggle Rock Vogel p. 433 - The Still 5.10c
- 3 bolts
- Poppin' and Breakin' 5.10a*
- 4 bolts
- Stairway to Kevin 5.88
- 5 bolts to anchor
- Wuthering Heights 5.9
- 3 bolts
- Cosmis Trigger 5.13a ***
- bolts to chains
- I Have the Touch 5.12d
- bolts
- Jolly Roger 5.10c
- bolts
- Sensory Deprivation 5.12b**
- bolts
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