The Finest Leads for All

Room to Schroom

Ready for the sharp end? Here are some suggestions for lead climbs for the up and coming leader. These climbs, remember, are only suggestions. It's up to you to lead them safely, and set up safe, bombproof anchors.

  5.0-5.5        5.6      5.7     5.8 5.9     5.10     5.11

But first, here are a few things to consider:

Lead climbing outdoors, placing gear, is a lot different than following, top roping, or leading in the gym. Many factors need to be taken into consideration. Lots of things can happen while lead climbing, some of them very unpleasant indeed.

Confidence level, quality of rock, how much you drank the night before, amount of sleep, emotional baggage: it all factors into the leaders psyche

5.9 in the gym ain't 5.9 outdoors. Maybe the rating in the guidebook (or on the website) is incorrect. Maybe it's a sandbag or for people over 6' tall.  Also 5.9 face is different than 5.9 slab or crack, or chimney or off-width. On a freezing cold day with frozen fingers and numb feet, 5.9 can get very, very difficult. What if it's windy, or too hot, or getting dark?

Joshua Tree has some run out climbs too, and we all know a 5.9 move next to a bolt is way different than a 5.9 move 40' out. Maybe the protection is great on the climb, but you didn't bring enough stuff, or the right pieces, or you didn't bring any wide pro, or you used the desired piece early in the lead. Once you get to the top, do you have enough gear (or knowledge) to set a safe, bombproof anchor?

A 5.9 climb can get a lot harder if you get off route and on harder terrain. Climbs are more difficult if you missed key holds, use improper technique, over grip, or diddle around too long and get pumped.

Bugs can fly in your face, lizards and snakes and spiders can scare you on climbs, wasps, bees, mosquitoes, and ants can pester you.

Boyfriends, girlfriends, and gym pals can shout incorrect beta to you. Maybe you got on the wrong climb by mistake. Ever drop a crucial piece of gear, as you fumbled to get it in before you pump out? Damn, your shoe came untied, right at the crux!

Some people get nervous on the lead and don't lead as well with others watching. Some people can't lead well unless they have an audience. Some people put in less pro when there is an audience so their audience won't think they are "chicken-shit." People take dares, show off, try to prove something, or let their run-away egos take over. Lots of things can, and do happen on the lead.

Your boot can get stuck in a crack, sweat gets in your eyes, and it's also difficult to lead if you really have to go to the bathroom.

I believe these climbs, if done properly, can be relatively safe, fun ventures. Even on safe climbs, with excellent protection, on perfect days, with the perfect gear, things still can and do go wrong. An improperly placed cam in a perfect crack will fail, and dirt on a shoe will make you slip on easy terrain. People get hurt (or killed) on 5' falls, and survive 100' grounders. Lots can and will happen to the lead climber, but the rewards of lead climbing are what we climb for.

I picked these climbs because they all have good protection, are excellent lead climbs, and a competent, confident leader, climbing within his/her abilities, should find these climbs safe. Some of Joshua Tree's "classic" routes are scary, and down right dangerous. Being scared out of your gym bag can detract from the overall climbing experience, and getting hurt or killed is never a good idea. These suggested climbs should not have you wetting yourself on the lead, but remember that all climbs can be scary and dangerous when things go bad, for whatever reason.

5.0-5.5

*B-1, 5.1
Short jam crack with protection. Sunny in afternoon. Close to road at popular Quail Springs picnic area.
Vogel, p.33; Bartlett Lost Horse, P15
*Scaramouch, 5.2
A very easy crack climb with protection in the campground. Sunny.
Vogel, p.534; Bartlett Indian Cove, P47
*Marchesa, 5.2
A longish crack/chimney climb in Indian Cove with protection. Sunny.
Vogel, p.534; Bartlett Indian Cove, P47
*Circus, 5.2
Short jam crack. Close to road, sunny in AM.
Vogel, p.362; Bartlett Central JT, P74
*Double Crack, 5.3
Double crack on the popular short wall in Indian Cove.
Vogel, p.537; Bartlett, P52
***Upper Right Ski Track, 5.3
Great, exposed, exciting crack climb. Good protection. Excellent summit of Intersection Rock.
Vogel, p.183; Bartlett Hidden Valley, P67
*B-2, 5.3
Short jam crack with protection. Close to road at popular Quail Springs picnic area. Sunny in afternoon.
Vogel, p.33; Bartlett Lost Horse, P15
*Beginner's One, 5.3
Slabby to sort of steep, short jam section. Tricky descent? Sunny in afternoon. Close to campground.
Vogel, p.194; Bartlett Hidden Valley, P68
*False Layback, 5.4
Slippery, funky right facing corner. Be careful. Protection available. Close to road, sunny in AM.
Vogel, p.362; Bartlett Central JT, P74
*Nectar, 5.4
Mostly hands. Good pro. And easy jamming crack, shady in afternoon.
Vogel, p.463; Bartlett Pinto Basin, P44
*Final Act, 5.4
Left facing dihedral with protection. Close to road, sunny in AM.
Vogel, p.132; Bartlett Lost Horse, P40
*Willit Slab, 5.5
This is a fairly well protected 5.5 slab sport route. It's in a hidden canyon, but not far from the road, and easy to find if you follow approach description. (listed in Vogel as 5.7, but more like 5.5)
Vogel, p.535; Bartlett Indian Cove, P45
**Bong, 5.5
Crack climb near the campground. Mostly hands, shady North facing.
Vogel, p.194; Bartlett Hidden Valley, P67
*The Chief, 5.5
Crack climb on right side of formation. 15 minute approach. Sunny in afternoon.
Vogel, P44; Bartlett Wonderland, P10
*Men With Cows Heads, 5.5
Straight on crack climb at popular Atlantis Wall. Shade in afternoon. Short approach.
Vogel, P105; Bartlett Lost Horse, P65
**Safe Zone Spire, 5.5
One of Joshua Tree's easiest, well-protected sport climbs. 45 minute approach. See New Routes
**Yellow Peril, 5.5
Excellent hand crack in a slab. 1 hour approach, sunny. Largish climb. See New Routes
**Elementary Jamming, 5.5
Steep, clean hand crack. Very long approach to an isolated area, 1-1 1/2 hour approach. North facing shady climb. Steep, twitchy jamming with protection.
Vogel, P405  

5.6

Duchess, 5.6
A short, cool lead. Has good pro, good climbing, easy location, and one bolt.
Vogel, p.534; Bartlett Indian Cove, P47
Chute the Moon, 5.6
This is a very short, fun route, in a cool area. It's in a hidden canyon and a bit tricky to get to, but once you are there, it's a fun, safe, very short lead. Q.D.s only. Small hold slab climbing.
Vogel, p.538; Bartlett Indian Cove, p.57
*Ain't Nothing But a J-Tree Thing, 5.6
Straight on crack. Good pro. Shade in afternoon. Located at popular Thin Wall.
Vogel, p.166; Bartlett Hidden Valley, p.28
*Leaping Leana, 5.6
Straight on, low angle, jamming. Sunny in afternoon, easy to find.
Vogel, P152; Bartlett Hidden Valley, p.42
*Deflowered, 5.6
Chimney to crack, good trad climb. Sunny in afternoon. Close to campground.
Vogel, p.211; Bartlett Hidden Valley, p.89
*Curtain Call, 5.6
Thin crack close to road. Playhouse Rock. Shade in afternoon.
Vogel, p.132; Bartlett Lost Horse, P40
*Fifteen Minute Gap, 5.6
Watergate Rock, dog leg crack. Shade in afternoon. 20 minute approach. Adequate protection. Crack in steep slab.
Vogel, p.264; Bartlett Central JT, P68
**Asian Fever, 5.6
7 bolt sport climb. Adequate protection. One of Joshua Tree's easiest, well-protected sport climbs. 1 hour approach. Sunny south facing. New Route, N. of Wonderland

5.7

*Tiptoe, 5.7
Fun, short climb, protected with 3 closely spaced bolts. Be careful getting to the first bolt. Tricky, fun moves. Close to road. Sunny in afternoon.
Vogel, p.33; Bartlett Lost Horse, P15
*Andromeda Strain, 5.7
1 bolt face to crack. Sunny in afternoon. Close to road. Good protection.
Vogel, P40; Bartlett Lost Horse, p.23
***White Lightning, 5.7
Classic straight on crack. Bring enough pro to protect this large pitch. Bring bigger stuff too.
Vogel, p.126; Bartlett Lost Horse, p.46
*Smooth as Silk, 5.7
Finger crack to anchor. Close to road.
Vogel, p.95; Bartlett Lost Horse, p.53
*Minotaur, 5.7
Steep, short crack climb. Shade in afternoon. Located in popular Atlantis area, more moderates in area.
Vogel, P105; Bartlett Lost Horse, p.64
**Classic Corner, 5.7
Hand crack in corner. Located in quiet area.
Vogel, P109; Bartlett Lost Horse, P68
*Bush Crack, 5.7
Straight-on hand crack. Walk from Atlantis parking area. Shady in afternoon.
Vogel, p.120; Bartlett Lost Horse, p.73
*Jumping Jehosaphat, 5.7
Straight on jamming, low angle crack.
Vogel, P152; Bartlett, p.42
**Toe Jam, 5.7
Great climb, good protection. Campground classic.
Vogel, p.188; Bartlett Hidden Valley, p.63
**Lazy Day, 5.7
Excellent 5.7 crack climb. Sunny in AM and very close to road.
Vogel, p.381; Bartlett Central JT, p.93
*Water Moccasin, 5.7
Bolt protected steep face. Located near campground in a hidden corridor in Indian Cove. Adequate protection. Make sure you are on the correct climb; there are a lot of climbs close together; some better protected than others.
Vogel, p.533; Bartlett Indian Cove, P45
*Beck's Bear, 5.7
Left facing dihedral with pro. Close to road. Shade in afternoon.
Vogel, p.132; Bartlett Lost Horse, P40
*Frosty Cone, 5.7
Straight on steep crack with buckets too. Fairly close to road. Shade in afternoon. Located on popular Dairy Queen Wall.
Vogel, p.131; Bartlett Lost Horse, p.43
**Double Dogleg, 5.7
Zig-zag crack. Fairly close to road. Shade in afternoon.
Vogel, p.98; Bartlett Lost Horse, p.58

5.8

Campfire Girl, 5.8
This excellent climb is a great lead with great protection. The moves are fun, solid jams, and the climb is in the shade on hot days. It's easy to find, easy to get to, and you lower off after the climb. Because the anchor is part-way up the climb (which is 5.10d to the top), this climb is mostly led anyways. Great lead!
Vogel, p.516; Bartlett Indian Cove, p.28
Palm Reader, 5.8
This is an awesome, but short hand crack. Easy to find, easy to get to, with great protection.
Vogel, P520; Bartlett Indian Cove, p.28
*Jelly on Springs, 5.8
This newish route is easy to get to, has sport pro, and is a fairly safe lead. Located at the end of Indian Cove group campsite.
**Dinkey Doinks, 5.8
Hand crack, morning sun, good jams.
Vogel, p.97; Bartlett Lost Horse, p.56
**Dappled Mare, 5.8
2 pitch climb.
Vogel, P101; Bartlett Lost Horse, p.61
**Sail Away, 5.8
Great climb, great pro, fairly steep, easy to find, extremely popular.
Vogel, P156-157; Bartlett Hidden Valley, p.39
**Straight Flush, 5.8
Left leaning crack, steep, strenuous jamming.
Vogel, p.196; Bartlett Hidden Valley, p.99
*Peyote Crack (Right), 5.8
Fingers/hands, sun in afternoon. Close to campground. Good pro.
Vogel, p.224; Bartlett Hidden Valley, p.99
*Planet X, 5.8+
Straight on finger/hand crack. Short. Sunny in AM. Short approach.
Vogel, p.359; Bartlett Central JT, p.71
**Catch a Falling Star, 5.8
Traversing crack. Good pro, good climb, close to road. AM sun.
Vogel, p.362; Bartlett Central JT, p.73
**Santa Cruz, 5.8+
2 pitch route on left side of Saddle Rocks. Crack and face. 2 rappels down. Good protection, in shade most of the day. Bartlett Central JT 2002 supplement, p.144
**Gem, 5.8
Excellent, fairly long, jamming crack with good pro. Located in a shady, hidden corridor.
Vogel, P445; Bartlett Pinto Basin, p.25
**Pinky and the Brain, 5.8
Well protected sport climb. Fairly short approach. QDs only. See New Routes for location. Split Rocks area.
**Continuum, 5.8+
Joshua Tree jamming. Shady in afternoon. Fairly close to road.
Vogel, P459; Bartlett Pinto Basin, p.55

5.9

**La Reina, 5.9
This climb is steep, short, and strenuous, but has good pro if you can lock off and hang by one hand while you place pro. It's also hard right from the get-go, so don't crater. Tape up?
Vogel, p.534; Bartlett Indian Cove, P47
*Jack of Hearts, 5.9
Steep, hard crack. Good jamming, good pro, good climb. Shade in afternoon. 45 minute approach.
Vogel, p.38; Bartlett Lost Horse, p.19
***Popular Mechanics, 5.9
Great rock, great jamming, great pro. Shade in afternoon. Other 5.9 cracks nearby. 45 minute approach.
Vogel, p.38; Bartlett Lost Horse, p.20
**Ace of Spades, 5.9
Great rock, great steep jamming, great pro. Other 5.9 cracks nearby. 45 minute approach.
Vogel, p.38; Bartlett Lost Horse, p.20
**Norm, 5.9
Well protected climb with mostly fixed protection. Small run out section is on easy climbing. See New Routes.
**Overseer, 5.9
Great pro, great steep climbing, exciting roof section.
Vogel, p.126; Bartlett Lost Horse, p.46
***Cake Walk, 5.9
Great climb, great pro, great moves, great jams. Sun in afternoon. Fairly long pitch.
Vogel, p.96; Bartlett Lost Horse, p.55
**Smithereens, 5.9
Short, steep, thin crack. Good climbing, good pro. Shade in afternoon.
Vogel, p.98; Bartlett Lost Horse, p.58
**Young Lust, 5.9
Steep, short, thin crack. Good climbing, good pro. Shade in afternoon.
Vogel, p.98; Bartlett Lost Horse, p.57
**Mare's Tail, 5.9
Multi-pitch climb, tricky crux, good pro. Sunny climb.
Vogel, P101; Bartlett Lost Horse, p.61
***Sexy Grandma, 5.9
Newish route on Old Woman. Lots of fixed gear. QDs only. See New Routes
**Strawberry Jam, 5.9
Straight on, steep, strenuous, tricky jams. Sun in morning. Near campground.
Vogel, p.196; Bartlett Hidden Valley, p.70
**Hands Off, 5.9
Excellent jamming. Right in campground. Afternoon sun.
Vogel, p.197; Bartlett Hidden Valley, p.71
*Damper, 5.9
Fist crack. Practice for Canyonlands, Yosemite, and Devil's Tower. Shortish climb in campground, steep, solid fists. (off width for smaller hands)
Vogel, p.200; Bartlett Hidden Valley, P73-74
**Super Roof, 5.9
Hands through roof. Easy to get to, near campground. Morning sun.
Vogel, p.210; Bartlett Hidden Valley, p.88
*Peyote Crack (Middle), 5.9
Fingers/hands, short. Afternoon sun. Close to campground.
Vogel, p.224; Bartlett Hidden Valley, p.99
***Touch and Go, 5.9
Great route, great pro. Crux near bottom. Steep and some say pumpy. Can be strenuous to get gear in a crux. Morning sun.
Vogel, p.241; Bartlett Central JT, p.19
***Pope's Crack, 5.9
Mostly hands in a corner. Sunny, close to road, popular.
Vogel, p.245; Bartlett Central JT, p.25
**Room to Shroom, 5.9
Splitter hands. A bit of an approach, but worth the hike.
Vogel, p.278; Bartlett Central JT, p.54
**Alice in Wonderland, 5.9
Steep fingers to fists. Difficult, lengthy scramble to approach. 45 minute approach. Afternoon sun.
Vogel, p.263; Bartlett Central JT, p.64
*Small World, 5.9
Hands. Located near road. In the shade most of the time.
Vogel, p.394; Bartlett Central JT, p.115
**Electralux, 5.9
Fairly well protected face climb. Shade. Bartlett Central JT 2002 supplement, p.133
***Colorado Crack, 5.9
Mostly hands. Excellent climb, great pro. In a shady, hidden corridor.
Vogel, P459; Bartlett Pinto Basin, p.25
***Invisibility Lessons, 5.9
Mostly hands. Jam crack. Shady in afternoon.
Vogel, P459; Bartlett Pinto Basin, p.55
**Lesbian Lust, 5.9+
Small, cool bolted arÍte on big boulder. 1 hour approach, isolated area.
Vogel, p.503; Bartlett Pinto Basin, p.80
**High Strung, 5.9
Thin to off width. Great climb. 30-40 minute approach. Morning sun only.
Vogel, p.286; Bartlett Wonderland, p.70

5.10

*Six-Gun By My Side, 5.10-
5 bolt face climb. This is a very good slab climb with good pro in the sunny Corral Wall area.
Vogel, p.543; Bartlett Indian Cove, P67
**Right Baskerville Crack, 5.10-
Well protected, excellent finger crack. Reasonable approach. Sunny in AM.
Vogel, p.35; Bartlett Lost Horse, p.18
**Tossed Green, 5.10-
Straight on hand jamming crack. Shade in the afternoon. 30 minute approach.
Vogel, p.36; Bartlett Lost Horse, p.18
***Tax Man, 5.10-
Straight on hands, thin hands, short wide section at top. Steepish, great pro, great jams, great climb.
Vogel, p.130; Bartlett Lost Horse, P44
***Poodles Are People Too, 5.10b
Great climb, great moves, great pro. Bring thin stuff.
Vogel, p.126; Bartlett Lost Horse, p.46
**Left Banana Crack, 5.10c
Cool crack with a roof. Good pro. Sun in afternoon.
Vogel, p.124; Bartlett Lost Horse, p.49
***Bird On A Wire, 5.10-
Multi pitch, sunny, excellent climb. 1 bolt.
Vogel, P101; Bartlett Lost Horse, p.61
**Friendly Hands, 5.10b
Thin hands. Shady in afternoon. Easy to get too.
Vogel, p.111; Bartlett Lost Horse, p.82
*Fisticuffs, 5.10b Fisticuffs
Strenuous, fist/off width climb, great pro, strenuous climbing.
Vogel, p.170; Bartlett Hidden Valley, p.22
***Illusion Dweller, 5.10b
Excellent climb, excellent pro. Many rests, steep, strenuous, rocky crux. Sun in afternoon (top part of climb).
Vogel, p.169; Bartlett Hidden Valley, p.25
*No Calculators Allowed, 5.10a
Steep crack climb with face holds. Good pro. Shade in afternoon. Located at popular "Thin Wall."
Vogel, p.166; Bartlett Hidden Valley, p.27
*Surrealistic Pillar, 5.10b
Steep, strenuous great crack climb. Mostly hands. Right in the campground.
Vogel, p.192-193; Bartlett Hidden Valley, p.66
**Pee Wee's Piton, 5.10a
Tricky sport climb with a few weight dependent moves. Reachy, tricky start. 7 bolts, 1 FP to sport anchor. Afternoon sun. Campground location. Bartlett Hidden Valley 2002 supplement, p.120
**Rollerball, 5.10b
Hand crack over roof. Great climb, good pro, jamming over roof. Strenuous. Sun in afternoon. Fairly close to road.
Vogel, p.219; Bartlett Hidden Valley, p.96
*Lady Fingers, 5.10 a/b
6 bolt face climb. Steep edges. Near Loose Lady. Morning sun. Newer route. Bartlett Hidden Valley 2002 supplement, P109
**Frontal Lobotomy, 5.10a/b
Excellent, steep jamming. 30 minute approach. Afternoon sun.
Vogel, p.261; Bartlett Central JT, p.63
***Exorcist, 5.10a
Fingers to reachy face move. Excellent. Good pro but you need to hang off finger locks to place it. Strenuous if you fiddle about.
Vogel, p.384; Bartlett Central JT, p.98
**Too Secret To Find, 5.10d
Crack climb over a small roof. N. facing and shady. 30-40 minute approach. Steep, cool jamming with good pro.
Vogel, p.51; Bartlett Wonderland, p.21
***No Self Respect, 5.10c
Great jamming with good protection. Sunny south facing. Long approach.
Vogel, p.78; Bartlett Wonderland, p.56
***No Self Confidence, 5.10b
Excellent jam crack with good protection. Long approach. Sunny south facing.
Vogel, p.78; Bartlett Wonderland, p.56
***Dangling Woo Li Master, 5.10a
Great, steep climb. Crack protection. Steep crack and face moves. Located in Hidden Bighorn Mating Grotto. 50 minute approach.
Vogel, p.316; Bartlett Wonderland, P104
***Caught Inside On A Big Set, 5.10b
Steepish, strenuous jamming. Located in Hidden Bighorn Mating Grotto. 50 minute approach.
Vogel, p.316; Bartlett Wonderland, P104
**Pet or Meat, 5.10+
Well protected, steep sport climb, crux is very well protected, clips off of positive holds. QD's only. Tricky, strenuous, reachy crux, has a gym-climb feel to it.
Vogel, P535; Bartlett Indian Cove, P45.
**Sweat Band, 5.10
This steep face climb has good pro, good moves and is a great climb. It's run out on extremely easy ground up to the top steep section. The crux is bolt protected with the bolt fairly close by. This climb is south facing and sunny.
Vogel, P524; Bartlett Indian Cove, P54.
***Black Jack, 5.10 +
This is safe sport climb with 8 bolts and a sport anchor. Very close to road, sunny most of the day.
Vogel Greatest, P94; Bartlett Lost Horse, P36.
**Decompensator of Lhasa, 5.10 +
Crack and face route. Good climbing and good pro. Afternoon sun and close to campground.
Vogel, P211; Bartlett Hidden Valley, P59.
***O'Kelley's, 5.10 -
Great pro, great climbing, very steep, pumpy, classic, shortish approach, morning sun.
Vogel, P229; Bartlett Hidden Valley, P102.
**Raked Over the Coles, 5.10 +
Excellent, tricky, steep, technical climb with good pro, although safe placements are strenuous and/or tricky to place. Sunny location and close to road.
Vogel, P245; Bartlett Central J.T., P26.
***Shock Therapy, 5.10 +
Excellent, well protected sport climb in an out-of-the way location.
Vogel, P374; Bartlett Central J.T., P85.
***Rubicon, 5.10d
Excellent crack climb, shady in afternoon, fairly close to road, watch rope drag, pumpy at crux. Good pro.
Vogel, P462; Bartlett Pinto Basin, P43.
***Snake Book, 5.10 +
Steep, strenuous, stemming with good pro, sunny in afternoon, 1 hour approach, isolated area.
Vogel, P501; Bartlett Pinto Basin, P77.
***Black President, 5.10 +
Excellent climb, long pitch, 50-60 min. approach, sunny in afternoon, good protection.
Vogel, P314; Bartlett Wonderland, P102

5.11

**Natural Selection, 5.11a
Crack climb in corner, shady north facing, fairly long approach.
Vogel, P76; Bartlett Wonderland, P58.
***Pet Cemetery, 5.11 -
Well protected sport climb, 5 bolts, very steep This climb is sort of in an out-of-the way place.
Vogel, P27; Bartlett Lost Horse, P11.
***Rattler, 5.11a
Excellent jamming, sunny in afternoon, 1 hour approach, isolated area.
Vogel, P501; Bartlett Pinto Basin, P77.
**Papaya Crack, 5.11 -
Steep well protected, excellent pumpy crack climb, sunny in afternoon.
Vogel, P124; Bartlett Hidden Valley, P49.
****Coarse and Buggy, 5.11
This great climb has very good pro, but make sure you bring RPs, small stoppers, and enough stuff to protect the whole longish climb. One of the best climbs in park, crux at top.
Vogel, P136; Bartlett Hidden Valley, P55.
**Grey Cell Green, 5.11 -
4 or 5 bolt sport climb, QD's only. Up to 3 bolt anchor, steep, pumpy, safe, and gym-fit climbers send. Good climb, right in campground, afternoon sun.
Vogel, P206; Bartlett Hidden Valley, P78.
**Jumping Jack Crack, 5.11 -
Squeeze chimney to hands, good climbing, good pro, strenuous, and height dependent? Sunny in afternoon and close to campground.
Vogel, P212; Bartlett Hidden Valley, P89.
**Crime of the Century, 5.11 -
Excellent, exciting climb, wild, strenuous moves with good pro, shady location, fairly close to road.
Vogel, P252; Bartlett Central J.T., P38.
***We Don't Need No Stinkin' Badges, 5.11b/c
6 bolt sport climb, excellent, sunny location, close to road.
Vogel, P358; Bartlett Central, P71.
***Heart of Darkness, 5.11 -
One of Joshua Tree's most awesome splitters, thin hands, shortish, located in a hidden dark corridor, 20 min. approach.
Vogel, P373; Bartlett Central J.T., P84.
***Oyster Bar, 5.11b
Awesome sport route on steep small knobs, pumpy.
Vogel, P375; Bartlett Central J.T., P86.
***Jane's Addiction, 5.11b
Short, pumpy, reachy, gym-like climb, sunny in afternoon.
Vogel, P386; Bartlett Central J.T., P101.