| This is the first section of a complete Sport Climbing Guide to Joshua Tree National Park. This first section is offered to you FREE OF CHARGE. The next sections, which follow the Bartlett Guides, will be offered on the subscription part of this website to members only. Your subscription dollars go to future development of this site. An on-line Sport Climbing Guide has obvious advantages over a written published Guide. With the on-line Guide, pages, space, photos, size and scope are not an issue. I can also add or subtract information, keeping the Guide as accurate and up to date as possible. So get out your lycra, your Starbucks decaf-latte with skim milk and one sugar-in-the-raw, polish up those bent gates, and put on a clean Prana tank top; it's time to clip bolts and pull DOWN! Click here for Central Joshua Tree Sport Routes or for Pinto Basin Sport Routes or Wonderland Sport Routes or Geo Tour/Queen Mtn Sport Routes
Indian Cove is a popular place to climb for a number of reasons. It is located at a lower elevation than the main part of the park, which makes it warmer on those cold winter days. There are many climbs which are very close to the roads in the campground, and the campground is rather large . Some of the Canyons (Johnson Canyon and Rattlesnake Canyon) are some of the most beautiful canyons in the Park. Many of these climbs listed in this web-guide are not found in any guidebooks. I did not put in all bolted climbs... Any that had an R rating (i.e. known to be dangerous and run-out) have been left out...not that all the climbs listed in this web-guide are safe.....ALL CLIMBING IS DANGEROUS AND IT'S WAY EASY TO GET MANGLED/KILLED. Please read the disclaimer on this site. I also left out climbs that you need a lot of trad gear. Some of the climbs listed in this web-guide NEED SUPPLEMENTAL TRAD GEAR....I noted this whenever I could. Use your own judgment, and don't hop on these climbs with just quickdraws unless you are sure that is all you will need. Have fun! Gordo's Picks (Some suggestions of quality routes which aren't too hard to find and very worth doing) |
Upstart LeadersLouie Routes By Iceberg Boulder (Baby Steps 5.0 * , Girl Power 5.0* ) - Jaime Maneuver 5.8*
- Jelly on Springs 5.8*
- Feminine Itch 5.7* Jailhouse Rock Routes (Prison Blues 5.7/5.8)
 El Chivo 5.8* - Willit Slab 5.5*
Indian Palisades Corridor Routes (Eyes of Amber 5.7, Water Moccasin 5.7) - Fluff Boy 5.8
- Chute the Moon 5.6
| Solid Sport ClimbersKatumba 5.10c* Celine 5.10c* Sawdust and Peanut Shells 5.10-* Silent Scream 5.10a ** The Shank 5.10-** Pet or Meat 5.10+ ** Belay Girl 5.10c** Goodbye Mr. Bond 5.10c** Sweat Band 5.10c ** Six-Gun by My Side 5.9* Exfoliation Confrontation 5.9* | Hardman Flaggin' tendon-busting , coffee drinking Euros29 Bombs 5.11-** Blitzkrieg 5.11+* Lascivious Conduct 5.11* Silent But Deadly 5.11* Kalishnakov Kulture 5.12-* Bonfire 5.11b** Mystic Teflon 5.10=/5.11-* Border Patrol 5.11c * Val De Mello 5.10+* Pocket Pool 5.11d** Monaco 5.11b** Iceberg Routes 5.10-5.13 Inferno 5.12c ** |
Eastern Area These routes are located in an isolated, quiet, and beautiful area, east of the road into Indian Cove. Look off left before you get to the Group Campsite Road. These routes are not in any guidebook. There are 12 known routes; 4 are sport climbs.  - Unknown 5.10?
- I haven't done this route yet. I'm guessing at the rating. I'll update as soon as I get more information.
 Bemp 5.10b* - 5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor (one optional small cam near the top)
- The Green Vinyl 5.10+
- 3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor
- The Krystal Ball 5.10-*
- 4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Hand size cam in dihedral at start?
 Jaime's Rock Bartlett p. 12 Vogel p. 507 - Bivy Kitten 5.9
- 2 bolts No anchor
- Stud Muffin 5.10
- 2 bolts no anchor
 - Jaime Maneuver 5.8*
- farthest left route 3 or 4 bolts No anchor
- Easter Overflow 5.9
- 4 bolts no anchor
Group Camp 1 Wall  Bartlett p. 13 Vogel p. 508 - Kletter Vergnugen 5.9
- 4 bolt Slab No anchor
- 29 Bombs (AKA Hitler Youth ) 5.10+/5.11- PG **
- Bolts to anchor Crack at Start
- Blitzkrieg 5.11d*
- 5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor Located around the corner from 29 Bombs.
- Katumba 5.10c*
- Bartlett Y2k Supp 1 FP and 3 1/4 in. bolts to anchor Located on pointy dark spire west of Camp #1 Wall
Hodgepodge Rock Bartlett p. 14-15 Vogel p. 508-509  Celine 5.10c* - Bolts to bolt anchor 1 piece needed for 1 1/2 in. crack part-way up climb. Located on East end of Hodgepodge clump
- Hot Tub Honey 5.8
- 3 bolt route on right side of North Face
- Unknown face 5.8
 - 3 bolts to 2 bolt anchor
- Bakersfield Bomb 5.8
- 2 bolts to 2 bolt anchor
- Bittersweet 5.9+*
- 2 bolt face. No anchors on top
 
End Loop RoutesBartlett p. 17 Vogel p. 510  - Simba 5.10d PG
- 3 bolts to anchor
- Jelly on Springs 5.8*
- 4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor Located right of Wall of Absurdities and just right of Back from Retirement
Big TopBartlett p. 19 Vogel p. 510-511 - Lion Tamer 5.8+ PG*
- 2 bolts to anchor
- Sawdust and Peanut Shells 5.10a*
- 5 bolts to anchor
Valle De DuckBartlett p. 21 Vogel p. 511 - Gaston's Groove 5.11a *
- 3 bolts No anchor
- Chase Lounge 5.11-
- bolts up scoop no anchor These 2 routes were chopped and then replaced. When routes are chopped, they are often replaced. Unfortunately, the rock is the one that suffers from the scars of the chopped bolts.
Grain Central StationBartlett p. 21 Vogel p. 512 - Dancing on Dimes 5.7
- 2 bolts No anchor
- Phantom Tollbooth (AKA T.R. Special) 5.10b*
- 3 bolts
Pixie RockBartlett p. 23 Vogel p. 515  Lascivious Conduct 5.11 b/c* - Silent Scream 5.10a**
- 4 bolts No anchor
- Silent But Deadly 5.11-*
- 3 bolts No anchor
Allpentine WallBartlett p. 24 Vogel p. 517  Kalishnakov Kulture 5.12-* - 4 bolts No anchor
Campfire Crag So. Face Bartlett p. 25 Vogel p. 517  Heart Slab 5.8 - 5 bolts No anchor
- Potlicker
- 2 bolts (some pro?) No anchor
- Feminine Itch 5.7 * (Direct 5.10-*)
- 5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor
- Kundalini-Linguini-Weenie 5.8+*
- 2 or 3 bolts to 2 bolt anchor
- Unknow Face 5.11?
- start up crack/scoop... go left 3 bolts up face No anchor
Campfire Crag North Face Bartlett p. 26 Vogel p. 516  I had a Dream 5.10b - Bolts wander up and right No anchor (A pathetic climb with little worth)
- Inferno 5.12c***
- 5 Bolts up the steep face anchor
- Bonfire 5.11b **
- 7 bolts to 2 bolt anchor
Palm Reader Wall Bartlett p. 31 Vogel p. 516  - Mystic Teflon 5.10+
- 3 bolts No anchor
Corona Wall Bartlett p. 32 Vogel p. 520 - Border Patrol 5.11c*
- Bolts up, then right Anchor on top
Dos Equis WallGaines routes The Tooth Bartlett p. 34 Vogel p. 521  Character Flaw 5.10+ * - 4 bolts to anchor
Hug Dance Bartlett p. 38 Vogel p. 523 Hug Dance 5.11b/c * 6 bolts up a pillar Jailhouse Rock Bartlett p. 38 Vogel p. 523 Prison Blues 5.7/5.8 3 bolts Gaucho and Crusader 5.10b 1 or 2 bolts Varnished Wall Bartlett p. 41 Vogel p. 529 - Gaines Route
 The Liver is Evil and Must Be Punished 5.9+* (direct 5.10d) - Bolts to anchor May need a piece or 2, plus slings for knobs.
Billboard Buttress Bartlett p. 42 Vogel p. 530   Driving Limitations 5.8 3 bolts to anchor  Blow 5.10+* 4 Bolts to anchor Located left of Billboard Buttress on small pillar. El Chivo 5.8* Bolts to anchor Bartlett p. 43 Vogel p. 531 Val De Mello 5.11-* 4 bolts to anchor Bartlett p. 43 Vogel p. 531 Indian Palisades Corridor Bartlett p. 45 Vogel p. 533  Willit Slab 5 bolts to anchor Eyes of Amber 5.7 3 bolts Water Moccasin 5.7 bolts to anchor Harrell-Turner 5.10b 3 bolts The Shank 5.10- ** 4 bolts to anchor (Faces Morbid Mound) Feudal Wall Bartlett p. 46-49 Vogel p. 534-535  Paper of Plastic 5.9+ Bolts up buttress Located left of Coyote in the Bushes No anchor Coyote in the Bushes 5.10- 4 bolts no anchor Pocket Pool 5.11d ** 5 bolts no anchor The Block 5.10a 1 bolts ( Piece at start?) Anchors on top  Monaco 5.11b ** bolts to anchor on top Burning Man 5.10-  Bolts No anchor  Castle's Burning 5.12* 5 bolts no anchor Pet or Meat 5.10+ ** 4 bolts to anchor Dry Lake  3 bolts No anchor Noriega Does Panama 5.9+?5.10- 3 bolt slab No anchor Short Wall Bartlett p. 51 Vogel p. 536-537  Belay Girl 5.10+ 4 bolts Anchor on top Fluff Boy 5.8 2 bolts no anchor on top Initial crack will need pro Center Crag Bartlett p. 53 Vogel p. 523  Vertical Corrector 5.11a 4 bolts to anchor Optional cam in crack at bottom Oh God, It's my Boss 5.8* 3 bolts No anchor 
King Otto's Castle Bartlett p. 54 Vogel p. 523  - Goodbye Mr. Bond 5.10c**
- 4 bolts to anchor
- Quivering Savages 5.12a**
- 6 bolts to anchor
- Sweat Band 5.10c**
- 5 bolts to anchor. One bolt seems just out of reach to clip......
- Sweat Pants 5.11+
- 3 bolts to anchor Height dependant
Cramer's Corner Bartlett Y2K Fits the Bill 5.9 PG/R 3 bolts Frictional Characters 5.9 PG 2 bolts Frownface 5.10b 4 bolts Johnson Canyon Bartlett p. 57 Vogel p. 538  Chute The Moon 5.6 * 3 bolts on a boulder anchors on top Dirty Pinch 5.11- bolts and a FP to anchors Reeeeally Good 5.11b/c 6 bolts to anchor Gold Strike 5.11b 5 bolts Gabby's Shuttle 5.10c 3 bolts, 1 FP no anchor Ice Berg Boulder Bartlett p. 62 Vogel p. 540 Bourbon On Ice 5.10d 4 bolts anchor on top Slightly out of our Minds 5.11+/5.12-** 3 bolts to anchor Hot Tomale 5.13b*** Hidden Agenda 5.10b/c* 3 bolts Cold Fusion 5.11a** Cold Shoulder 5.11c ** Ice Breaker 5.12 *** Deception 5.12 c*** Baby Steps 5.0* ( This and the next climb are located on the formation behind Iceberg Boulder, and face Southeast) Girl Power 5.0* Mini-Mall Bartlett p. 62 Vogel p. 548 Return to Hell 5.11b* 3 bolts Cool Thing 5.12 a/b* 3 bolts Desert Whale 5.11 * 3 bolts to 2 bolt anchor Rattlesnake Forks Routes Bartlett p. 63 Vogel p. 548,549 Around the Corner 5.8 Arête with 2 bolts Love Comes in Spurts 5.10+/5.11- 3 bolts to anchor 1st bolts is high with crux bouldering start (which changes with the shifting sands in the wash). Margaret Thatcher Spire Iron Lady 5.8 Bolts to poor anchor on top Bartlett p. 63 Vogel p. 549 The Bulkhead Bartlett p. 63 Vogel p. 549 Exiled in Sweden 5.10d ** 3 bolts Anchor on top Slatanic Area Bartlett p. 64 Vogel p. 549 Witch Hunt 5.10b *** Bolts on an arête May need to have 4th bolt doubled for rap anchor? South of Heaven 5.12 c/d *** Up a crack (pro?) with 2 FP, then up an arête past 6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Rattlesnake Buttress Bartlett p. 64-65 Vogel p. 550 Eureka 5.12 *** Bolts up face on the far left side of Rattlesnake Buttress Roy's Route 5.11-* 2 pitches short first pitch (crux), Long slabby 2nd pitch. 2 ropes needed to rappel from top. 1st pitch may need some thin pro. Snake Eye Pillar Area Bartlett p. 66 Vogel p. 551 Snake Eye Pillar 5.7 Bolts up right side of slab Anchor Stink finger 5.10-** Bolts on face left of Snake Eye Pillar Route. Anchor Udi 5.10+* Bolted Buttress Up rattlesnake Canyon on the left. 2 pitches. First pitch needs pro. 2nd pitch QD's only Anchor on top Need 2 ropes to rap off. Jen 5.10- * 2 pitches First pitch has a bolt or 2 and a FP , but some pro is needed. 2nd pitch is bolts only. 2 raps off. Slab Routes (left and right ) 5.8 bolts no anchor Corral Wall Bartlett p. 67-69 Vogel p. 543-544 Lots of climbs here ; some would be considered sport climbs. This area is warm, protected and sunny when other areas can often be cold and windy. Only Outlaws Have Guns 5.9+ 3 bolts to anchor. Six-Gun by My Side 5.10a * 5 bolts to anchor Wild Wild West 5.10+/5.11-* 5 bolts on arête Hang Em' High 5.9* 3 bolts anchor Triple Bypass 3 bolts Exfoliation Confrontation 5.9 PG* 4 bolts to anchor Area Above Corral WallKill Them All, Let God Sort Them Out 5.8 * 7 bolts up a black buttress Maids of Honor 5.7* 4 bolts Slings on horns to rap Ponderosa Wall/ Black Tower Bartlett p. 70 Vogel p. 544 Virginia City 9 bolts to anchor Some gear need at bottom section? Black Like the Night 5.11d PG * 3 bolts on tower Lung Butter 3 bolts in chimney No anchor Lower Dodge City Bartlett p. 71 Vogel p.545 Hangman Jury 5.11b/c 6 bolts Up steep slab to anchor Frontier Justice 5.11b *** Crack (pro?) to 7 bolts Goes over roof anchor on top Upper Dodge City Bartlett p. 72 Vogel p. 546 String Em' Up 5.11 b/c ** 5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor 60m rap Lynch Mob 5.11a* 4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor Spaghetti Western 5.11d** 5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor |
PETA Crags
This climbing area is on the hillside and nearby hidden valleys just southwest of 29 Palms. The PETA Crag can easily be seen from the Del Taco in 29 Palms on Hwy 62 (near the Motel 6). So far there have been 11 routes done, 5 of them done on the PETA Crag. The PETA Crag is about a 45 min. hike, Clifton Giblet about an hour, while the rest are 1 hr. 15 min.
1. Mink 5.7 This is the hand/finger crack on the far right side of the PETA Crag. Poor rock.
2. Monkey Burger ** 5.7/5.8 This is the Face right of the "I love Animals, They Taste Good" Arete. This climb eventually meets the aret near the top. 5 bolts.
3. I Love Animals, They Taste Good ** 5.9 This climb starts in the obvious corner on the front face. then goes to the obvious clean arete to the right. There are 4 bolts, 4 fp, and an anchor. 90'.
4. Let's Eat Animal Meat 5.7+ Obvious corner to wide crack on the front face.
5. Cat, The Other White Meat ** 5.9 Face climb with 2 fp and 8 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Located on the face left of Let's Eat Animal Meat.
6. Clifton Giblet * 5.10c
Located on another formation up the valley from PETA crag, on the left side of the wash.
This climb goes past 4 bolts, to a loose crack/ramp up and right, then up a weakness/crack to the top. The top of this climb is loose and difficult. The 4the bolt is doubled, so you can rappel before the loose/difficult/irritationg part, but this shortens the route considerably. To get off the top, you need to jump across an exposed chasm on the backside. The climb is excellent to the 4th bolt,and "an excellent adventure" to the top...(i.e. that part sucks...)...There is a hawks nest on the right side of the formation, so please avoid this climb if the birds are present, as not to disturb them.
7. Yum Yum ** 5.8
This climb, and the next, are located up the drainage more and way up the hillside on the left. Yum Yum is the right of two climbs on a very prominent buttress/pillar. 4 or 5 bolts.
 8. Boom Boom ** 5.8 Boom Boom is the left of the two routes.
 9. Lockerbie * 5.9- Up and behind YumYum/Boom Boom is another formation with a big roof on the right side. Lockerbie goes up the face just left of the big roof, past 4 bolts and 1 fp.
10. Locker D * 5.10c This climb starts right and under the roof, turns the room and traverses a bit left just above the roof. 3 bolts and 1 fp.
11. Unnamed 5.7 This is the obvious wide crack just left of Lockerbie.
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