Bartlett Wonderland, P33-35
This area has a few routes listed in Bartlett. There are many unreported routes, and here is the most complete, up-dated list of routes to this area. It takes about 50-60 min. to get here, mostly a flat walk on the N. Wonderland Trail. Park in the North Wonderland parking lot, and start walking. When you get to the trail split for Boy Scout trail or Willow Hole, go right towards Willow Hole for about 10 min., and then Mongolia is seen as the
v ery large formation on the left. This area is becoming popular for a number of reasons, and climbers need to take care of this very beautiful, wild, and remote crag. Please try to follow "goat trails" to the crag, and leave the area clean and unspoiled. The routes are long, excellent, mostly moderate, sunny, and the views are fantastic. This area could very well have the best selection of quality well-protected long moderate routes in the park. There are many more previous unreported routes nearby. Keep checking this website for information on all the climbs in Mongolia area.
Mongolia (right side) Dos Chi Chi's Area
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- a Leon Redbone, 5.10+
- On the far, far left side, is a big corner. Go up the corner (pro), or up a flake on a slab (poor pro) to an area of recent rock fall. A huge section of rock came off here (which used to have a fixed pin!). Now climb up and traverse left on a rail to the first bolt. Face climb up to a
FP, then past 2 bolts to an anchor.
- b Steamy Sluts and Farm Animals, 5.7 R.
- Loose crack right of Leon Redbone and left of Randy. 170’ crack system. Poor pro in sections, some loose rock, and a bush that is very irritating and you must climb around. This climb needs some traffic
and probably a few bolts, Ends at 2 bolt anchor. Do not rap to ground on single rope. Rap to anchor at top of pitch one Love Gas, then to ground (2 rappels needed!).
- c Randy, 5.8+/5.9-
- Climbs a long crack system, just left of Bull with Gas. There is a fixed copperhead down low, and 2 bolts up high when the crack ends. 2 bolt anchor. 2 raps down. Do not rap on 1 rope. Go to rap anchor at top of pitch one of Love Gas. This climb has some loose rock/loose holds.
- d A Bull with Gas, 5.8+/.9- **
- 8 bolts, 2 FP to 2 bolt anchor. This is the left of 2 routes on this left- most buttress. Optional 2nd pitch (5.10-) post 2 or 3 more bolts to a 2 bolt anchor QD's only
- e Love Gas, 5.8+ (first pitch) 5.10- (2nd pitch)
- bolts, fixed pins to 2 bolt anchor. This is the right route on this buttress, Excellent climb. Some hollow flakes. QD's only.
- f Unknown route, 5.9+/5.10- X
- There is an unknown route on the slab to the right. It starts in a crack-system/corner, then goes up and left on the steep, grainy slab past only 2 bolts. Not recommended.
- g Los Dos, 5.8*
 - Very long crack pitch. Angles up and left to roof, then up and right above the roof. When the crack ends, there is one bolt to the big ledge of Dos Chi Chis.
- h Yasmine Bleeth, 5.8+/5.9- **
- This is the left of two routes on this (the middle) Buttress. The route starts just right of the big dead tree (and just behind the small spire with Gandy) joins Dos Chi Chis at the 2 bolt rap station (above the small roof), then follow Dos Chi Chis to the Big Ledge, or rap to ground from dbl Bolts. Excellent climb. QD's only. (take a bunch!)
- i Dos Chi Chis, 5.9***(three stars out of three)
- This awesome climb is the right of 2 routes on this (middle) buttress. Climb up bolts and 1
FP to a 2 bolt anchor. Do not stop here (rap anchor only), but keep climbing past a few more bolts to a big ledge. Pitch 2 climbs a steep slab past more bolts to the top of the formation. 3 raps down; top to ledge, hedge to Hanging belay, Hanging belay to ground. Watch your ropes, ends of ropes, etc. QD's only (take about a dozen or more). This is one of the best moderate climbs in the Park. Classic.
- j Sheep Shover, 5.7
- crack to chimney (obvious)
- k Binder, 5.8**
- This is a 2 pitch route, and is the only bolted route on his (right of three) buttresses. Pitch one goes up bolts to a ledge (no anchors on ledge). Pitch two has 2 finishes A) Go up left
aręte past many bolts and 1 FP to a sling anchor up high 5.7)
B. Go straight up a small steep face (5.6) to a dbl Bolt anchor. If you go up
aręte, its 2 raps down. QD's only. Good climb.
- l Britney Spears, 5.6
- crack to face. Right of Binder
- m Epperson Groove, 5.3
 - Grooves up and right of Binder Buttress
- n Gatorade Boy, 5.7
- Thin cracks to flake (wide) 1 bolt. Not recommended
- o Toby, 5.9+/5.10- ***
- bolted face on far right. 10 bolts. Excellent climb. 2 bolt anchor. 1 rap down 60m rope. QD's only. This is a very good climb.
- p Camp X-ray, 5.8+
- located right of Toby. About 100 yards right of Toby is another large formation with dark plates on the lower half. Climb up plates, thin follow an obvious crack to the top.
- q Gandy, 5.9
- Gandy is the small obvious spire just below Dos Chi Chis. Bolts on
aręte to 2 bolts on top. QD's only
- r Weo, 5.7 PG*
- very long aręte climb which starts down and right of Gandy, and ends in a spire top, sort of by the start of Toby. Bolts, Fps to anchor on top of spire. QD's only
- s Ben Scabbyface, 5.8R
- Buttress Right of Weo. Loose crack w/poor pro to face
w/FP and 1 bolt near top. This climb needs a few more bolts or something. (I'll
keep you posted. There is a 5.8 R face/thin crack climb on a smallish face about 20-30' right of Gandy.)
 
Mongolia (left side)
This is the large darkish face of Mongolia. The left side has the water streaks, and the right side has the big roof. The whole formation has a long right to left diagonal crack system.
- t Irish Toothache, 5.7- **
- This is the furthest left climb, and ascends the face of a pillar and ends at a ledge with bushes. 1
FP, 3 bolts to a 2 FP anchor. Excellent, easy, and unfortunately too short.
- u Daravader, 5.9+
- obvious OW right of Irish Toothache.
- v Marquess of Lorne, 5.7
- thin flakes to 1 bolt.
- w Captain Standish, 5.6
- crack to seam 1 bolt. The bolt is in the middle section of the climb. This is the left most of a number of cracks. It is actually around the corner on the left. Ends at a 2 bolt rap anchor. 1 60m rope rap (watch the ends).
- x Glen's Crack,5.6*
- crack system. This crack has natural pro and no bolts or fixed gear the whole way. It is the best of these 4 easy cracks. It is the crack just left of the crack w/the fixed pin at the bottom.
- y Jack,5.6
- corner to seam 1 FP at bottom. The piton at the bottom identifies this climb. 2 bolt rap anchor.
- z Fixed Bayonet,5.6
- This climb starts in a clean cracks right of the corner of Jack. It is over right and difficult to see until you are on it. Climb a clean easy crack to a ledge. Continue straight up about 30 feet, then traverse left into the crack/seam of Jack, and to the top. 2 bolt rap anchor.
- a Old Hornington,5.10-*
- There are some small roofs left of the super big roof. This is the left route, and follows thin cracks to a ledge. Goes over small roof near the start. 2 bolt rap anchor on ledge.
- b The Bazooka,5.10b*
- The route pulls the same roof as Old Hornington, and is identified by one bolt just over the roof. 2 bolt rap anchor on ledge
- c R.P.G. (Rocket Propelled Grenade),5.10+/5.11-
- This climb pulls a roof and is more or less on the left side of the very big roof. It is up and right of The Bazooka and is a very steep crack through a roof. Height dependent. 2 bolt rap anchor on ledge
- d Original route (A.K.A. Jake Off),5.8+/5.9-
- Big obvious left facing corner to OW at roof. Over the roof, follow the huge diagonal slash the goes across the whole face. This is the most obvious feature on the whole formation. There is one bolt up high, a bit above the diagonal, possibly for a belay? Probably 2 pitches.
- e Czech Shoulder Stand (A.K.A. Jake's Route), 5.8
- 1 bolt at start to crack. You end up going up and right to rap slings on horns. Bolt at start is route locator.
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