Cap Rock Topropes

return to topropes...

Cap Rock is a very good climbing area, with a lot of climbs, some very good climbs too. All the climbs have a short approach. The NE face is shady in the winter , and can get cold. The NE face is also often used by climbing classes, groups, and climbing schools, so have alternate plans if you are thinking about climbing there. The climbs have some length , and the area is popular with climbers and tourists. These is some bouldering nearby too. From the Cap Rock parking lot, there is also a wheel-chair paved trail which heads in a loop out south and back, and is a cool little walk through the boulders. It's an easy scramble from the right to the top of the NE face. 


Cap Rock toprope area

Climbs
  1. Event Horizon 5.10b R *
    2 bolts on top (extend over edge), BUT you will want to rap down and clip bolts and place directionals because you could fall of this climb, swing and get hurt. Don't set up as a straight top rope (I wouldn't , anyways).
  2. Retirement 5.10a PG
    Med to XL cams in horizontal at top. Extend over edge.
  3. Nutcracker 5.2 PG/R *
    Nutcracker ends at top of a chimney where there are a bunch of very large chockstones/boulders. There is a wide horizontal on the left (large-XL cams), a wide crack on the right (XL cams), and lots of pinches and boulders to tie off. The chimney is low angle, so your rope will hang in the chimney and probably get chewed a bit.
  4. Space Odyssey 5.10a PG
    This climb ends at top of a slab. The slab on the top has a lip/flake. Bring a big, ol' piece of rope and lasso it. You can back it up with small cams to one side, and med-XL on the other side (If you wish).
  5. Circus Midget 5.10+
    Anchor is same as for Space Odyssey.
  6. Bush League 5.11b a/b
    (See comments for Bush Eviction )
  7. Bush Eviction 5.9
    Tough one to top rope, because , unless you rap down for directionals, you could fall out/off of this slanting crack and swing right onto False Lieback (Ouch). There are cracks at the top (med cams), but you would probably want to rap down, place directionals...(too much hassle?).
  8. False Lieback 5.4 *
    At top of the lieback, step left onto a big , flat ledge/platform. Great horizontal (small to med cams) plus a wide vert. crack.. Use these and extend over the edge.
  9. False Prophet 5.9 PG
    There is a giant pinch under a huge boulder. Tie off the pinch, use extension over the edge, and make sure the rope is above the climber on this traversing climb, so the climber doesn't swing.
  10. Black Ice .
    At the top of the climb in is a seam/flake. Follow it back to a crack/flake with a dark chicken head on top. Tie off the chicken head for pro, and use the flake/crack too. There is also a small crack to the left of the chicken head (small -med. cams). Extend over edge onto top of slab.
  11. Lil' Squirt 5.9+
  12. Horr-zontal Terror-Verse 5.10b PG **
    You won't be able to top rope on this, because the whole climb goes sideways. Excellent and cool route (lead only).
  13. The Ayatollah 5.11a
    This TR is now a lead. I believe there are bolts on top . Cool, but short climb.
  14. Catch a Falling Star 5.8 **
    There are bolts on top. It might be best to sit on top to belay, and the climb, which is excellent, traverses a lot, and you could just keep shifting your body and have a moving belay top rope.
  15. Nobody Walks in L. A. 5.8 *
    (Same as Catch a Falling...)
  16. Catch a Falling Car 5.10 c *
    This climb looks like the bolted anchor is just above it, for and easy TR. Extend if needed to help rope drag?
  17. Tumbling Dice 5.10a/b *
    You can TR off the Dbl bolts, but you might want to rap down and clip the bolts for a directional , as the bolts seem a bit off to the side of this climb.