Central Joshua Tree New Routes 

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Check out the New Saddle Rocks Routes!!!!!!!

 

George Armstrong on FA of BishNew Routes Added 28 August 2006

Turd Burgler A2+/A3- *
This is the thin seam/hairline crack behind Dweeb Spire at Snickers Area. The climb goes up , then traverses straight left at the top. Take some thin pins, RURPs, copperheads . No anchor at the top. Walk off to the South.
Jesus Saw you Take It 5.9 A2+/A3- *
A wild and challenging aid route over on Snickers. This route starts just right of Dweeb Spire, and traverses right, eventually going up over a sizable roof on some fixed gear. There are a few bolts and a few fixed pins and copperheads. Probaby will go all clean with the iron already fixed.
Humerous 5.10b*
4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor Some gear needed. Located between Funny Bone and Don't Think.
Joyride 5.11c*
Located right of Norweigan Wood 8 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.
Ivo's Route 5.12
There is a new climb on the N. Face of Snickers It goes over a huge roof.
Rad Nad 5.10-**
5 bolts (some gear, slings for knobs) to 2 bolt anchor. Located just left of Energy Crisis. Little Hunk N.E. Face.
Changes 5.11c*
9 bolts Up and left of Blues Traveler
Ma and Pa 5.10- *
These two climbs are located on the end of the formation , just right of Wage and Price Ceiling and Monkey Business (Little Hunk SE pace.) Bolts to anchor
Physical Grafitti 5.10+***
This 2 pitch classic route climbs up the W. Face of the formation east of Little Hunk. Pitch one goes left to right up a faint white dike. Belay from bolts in a cave. Pitch two goes straight left, up , then left again to an anchor. Excellent!
Mushroom Crack 5.10+
Difficult and nasty crack to the left of Physical Grafitti. Has a wide section at the top.
My Balls Feel like A Pair of Marachas 5.9*
This short yet cool climb ascends a sharp pinnicle just above the climb Three Musketeers, near little Rock Candy. 2 bolts and 2 FP. to a 2 bolt anchor. Route goes up the right (east) arete.
Mummy Dearest 5.8
Trad route. Thin gear to 2 bolt anchor. Located at a crag called The Crypt, which is between Hall of Horrors and Planet X. The climbs face the road.
Serf City 5.8*
3 bolts to 2 bolts belay.
Tomb Raider 5.10+*
4 bolts to 2 bolt belay Wild mantel move (crux).
Tora Bora 5.11c*
8 bolts No anchor on top Located on Rat Rock right of Winning Time
Echo Cove
There are 3 or more newish bolted routes to the left of Big Moe. I've done one which was 5.10 and fun. Snoop around and you'll find them.

Bish, 5.8***

Vogel, P277; Bartlett (Central J Tree), P53

On the Emotional Rescue Formation, 2 pitches 2 double bolt anchors, bolts and some wide gear. Awesome climb.

Bish
Bish


Lubricated Goat
       Lubricated Goat

Lubricated Goat, 
5.10b **

Vogel, P277; Bartlett (Central J Tree), P53

9 bolt face climb, located left of Emotional Rescue Formation. 2 bolt anchor
Long rappel, 120 feet, some downclimbing required, watch your ends!
A great way to access the Bish.

Idyllwild Dome Area

Bartlett 2001 Supplement, P127

Portly Pepper Pot, 5.10c*

Find this route across from Chongo's Love Child, 3 bolts, two bolt anchor.

\PPP

Chongo's Kid

Chongo's Love Child, 5.7R

1 bolt..

Escape Rock Area

Vogel, P274; 
Bartlett (Central J Tree), P49

A. Farewell Ambassador, 5.10a/b*

From the first bolt of Exit Stage Right, go up and left. 4 bolts

B. Exit Stage Right, 5.9**

New route.

C. Psoriasis, 5.9**

2nd photo - Rick Rockwell, 5.10-*

This is a face left of Escape from Planet Earth, 4 bolts. Rap from sling son tree.

Escape 1

Escape 2

Vogel p. 245 Bartlett Central Josh 2002 Sup. p. 131

London Calling ** 5.11 c PG/R

3 bolts, then left into the last 2 bolts of British Airways.

A Dog in the Ass * 5.8+

Vogel p. 382 Bartlett Central p. 94 This is a 2 bolt variation of Houses of the Homeless. Starts right and meets that route at the top. First piece is a drilled angle..

Happy Meal

Happy Meal * 5.10b

Vogel p. 388-391 Bartlett Central 2002 Sup. p. 147 Located on left as you enter Cave Corridor. 4 bolts, 1 fp., 2 bolt anchor.

Get Shorty ** 5.11d

Vogel p. 229-231 Bartlett Central 2002 Sup. p. 125 Can be seen on the right on a brown face, between Echo Cove and Key's Ranch Parking. 3 bolts.

Lost Mule Wall Area

Vogel p. 232 Bartlett Central 2002 Sup. p. 126

Hiding in Todd's Uterus 5.8 PG.

Start the same as Hiding in Honduras, go up and left and climb the right of two similar right facing books. Poor rock.

Hiding in Honduras 5.9

Cracks on formation on right just as you enter the canyon to Gila Monster. Start just right of a bush and climb straight up a crack to a thin right-facing flake.

Echo Cove East Side

Vogel p. 240 Bartlett Central 2002 Sup. p. 130

Little Fireman 5.10a/b

This climb is across from Black Tide and way left of Touch and Go. Climb left most left facing book/chimney. Where the chimney ends, go up and left past one bolt to a ledge with anchors.

Alf's Abandoned Route 5.9 PG

Backside of formation with Little Fireman. Crack to bolt, traverse right on horizontals to anchors of Little Fireman.

Venus at Dusk 5.6 PG/R

Climb gully right of Little Fireman. Continue up chimney splitting summit block.

Watergate Rock

Vogel p. 264 Bartlett Central 2002 Sup. p. 138.

Ed 5.11+ (TR)

Southeast face of boulder across from T-N-T. There are 2 bolts on top of this formation; one without a hanger on top of the formation, and another good bolt at the top of Ed (5.11+).

Malicious Deception 5.11b

Climb a thin flake past 2 bolts right of Dirty Trick. Join Dirty Trick at the third bolt.

T-N-T ** 5.10b

This route has been re-bolted with sturdy 3/8 inch bolts. There is now a 2 bolt anchor on top of the climb as well. There are now 2 or 3 bolted anchors on top of the main Watergate Rock This is the face with H. R. Hardman and 15-Min. Gap. It is possible to scramble up to the top to set up top ropes.

Room to Schroom Area

Vogel p. 278 Bartlett Central 2002 Sup. p. 136

Shoeless Joe Jackson * 5.10- (A.K.A. Fool's Gold )

Bolted face climb on main Room to Schroom face (located around the corner right of Room to Schroom)

Oak Tree Arête 5.11b (TR)

Arête right of Room to Schroom

Bacon and Mushrooms 5.11b (TR)

Face between Chemical Warfare and Room to Schroom, up to the apex of the arching crack.

Echo Outback

Vogel p. 232 Bartlett Central 2002 Sup. p. 126

Nebraskan Rump Rangers * 5.11

This climb is located in the same canyon with Lost Mule Wall and Gaget Rock. The climb is on the right side of the canyon and is easy to locate. The climb goes up thin cracks, past 3 pins and 1 bolt. This difficult climb has a height dependent reachy crux near the top.

Cap Rock

Vogel p. 362-363 Bartlett Central 2002 Sup. p. 140

Eat Bertha's Muscles 5.9+

2 bolt face route left of Visul Nightmare. Turn an A-frame roof near the top

Hickory Wind 5.10b PG

Starts left of Eat Bertha's Muscles. Thin crack w/pin, then cross chimney up and left, past a bolt.

Flying Burrito. 5.9

Buttress left of Hickory Wind Chimney. 1 bolt.

Krooked Kop Kane 5.9 R

Rt.-slanting crack/corner below Hey Taxi. Crappy rock. Not recommended.

Hall of Horrors Area

Vogel p. 387 Bartlett Central p. 102-103

La Bella Katchina * 5.10b

La Bella Offwidth in corridor behind Buckets to Burbank. Across from 3 bolt climb Knob Cheese.

 

 

 

Gunsmoke/Killer cracks Area

Vogel p. 271 Bartlett Central p. 41

Mini-voyage 5.8/5.9

This route looks like a mini-Imaginary Voyage. It climbs a chimney to a roof crack. Located above "Street Car". boulder problem.

Killer Cracks.

Tony Sartin's 5.12 route on the front side of the Killer Cracks is now gone. The rock slide away, crashed over, and is gone. I understand there is anew scrappy/dirty crack in the back (left?) where the Killer Crack block once was. (5.8?)

 

King Dome

Vogel p. 388 Bartlett Central p. 103 There are a few previously unreported climbs at the King Dome There is a variation to Aztec Two-Step (Reinig Route 5.10c*). Start up Aztec Two-Step, then go out right on the face of the buttress past 3 bolts, then rejoin Aztec near the top.Kingdome
Arturo's Special (5.8*)
has had one bolt added. This bolt was added by the 1st ascent party and should not be messed with. (If you don't like it... don't clip it, tough guy).
Tiptoe to Topanga 5.10-**
This old top rope is now an excellent lead climb. Follow the bolts right of Arturo's Special. Q D's only. This climb has it's own set of anchors. Rock a bit grainy, but with ascents, will clean up and be quite popular.
Mission Impossible.
This climb had a lame/dangerous start with a poorly tied off knob as pro to keep the climber out of harm's way. There is now a bolt there (added by the 1st ascent party). Please respect the first ascent partie's decision and leave the bolt in place.
Friction Impossible. 5.12a *
5 bolt face right of Mission Impossible
Mayan Mamba 5.6 PG/R
Chimney between Aztec Two-Step and Arturo's Special
Triumph Arch 5.11d PG *
Located on the backside of the King Dome Go up 40' of the approach ramp to The Little King, and climb face above (4 bolts).

Other Central Routes

Vogel p. 271 Bartlett Central p. 41

Dweeb Spire Disobedience School 5.10c*

Vogel p. 253 Bartlett Central p. 39

Dweeb Spire

The climb Disobedience School (5.10c*) on Dweeb Spire has gone through some changes. It originally had poor pro, pitons that have been removed, and a poor anchor on top. It has been retro-fitted with 3/8 in. bolts (where 2 shitty pins used to be.), and the anchor now is safe with a 3/8 in. bolt added. This climb is now safe, fun, and worthy. It also is probably 5.10a/b, not 5.10c (Although it seemed like 5.10c with the crappy pro before). 

 

 

Knob Cheese 5.10+*

Vogel p. 387 Bartlett 2002 Sup P146

Knob Cheese

Located on the back side of Buckets to Burbank Wall (Hall of Horrors) 2 bolts to a finger crack finish. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

Swing Low


Swing Low 5.7 **

Vogel p. 2720-273 Bartlett Central p. 16 This new route is quickly becoming one of Joshua Tree's most popular climbs. The reason's for this are a) It's a rather fun/cool climb b) It has excellent protection in the form of bolts c) You only need quick draws on this climb. d) It is very close to the road and in in already popular, established area. e) It has a sport anchor f) It's in the sun most of the day g) It has an entry level moderate rating for new lead climbers. It is located in Echo Cove, between R. A. F. and Pinky Lee. (Pinky Lee is easily top roped from this anchor as well.)

 

 

Snicker's  N. Face

Bartlett Central 2002 Supplement P133
Bakersfield5.8
Climbs a  left facing crack/face
Fresno5.10a *
Traverse right on a ledge, climb past the bolt onto a flake.  3 more bolts at the top

Bakerfield and Fresno

Barking Spider

Bartlett (Central) P91; Vogel P383 Barking Spider
Barking Spider5.9+/5.10-
This climb used to be on the Worst Routes list because it was a death climb.  Now it has been retrofitted with modern protection.  This was done by the first ascent party whose decision to add these bolts should be respected.  The climb now is a pleasant, fun, safe jaunt.  While you're there, the Bong-a-Long to the left is fun too.  The summit now has a sport anchor which was NOT put in by either FA party but should remain.