New Routes Added 28 August 2006
- Feck 5.10-
- Big Ass Ellie May 5.9
- These 2 climbs are located on a small boulder in front of the climb Lukachukai. The area is the cliffs and boulders on the right just before you get to Indian Head. Both have one bolt at the start. Feck is the right climb. Both climbs face East.
- May a Dick Grow Out of Your Forehead 5.9*
- 4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Indian Head
- Everyone But Larry 5.8 *
- 1 or 2 bolts to crack (1 fp), another bolt near top 2 bolt anchor Indian Head Area
- Make a Joyful Noise to the Lord 5.10-*
- 4 or 5 bolts to anchor Indian Head Area
- Henry Moore 5.8
- 1 or 2 bolts. Anchor is sling on horn Indian Head Area Located between Open Winfrey and May a Dick Grow Our Of Your Forehead.
- Lukachukai 5.7 *
- 3 or 4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor Indian Head Area
- Paris Hilton 5.11-
- This climb faces east and is on the huge bump just North of Indian Head. As you approach Indian Head, this formation is actually part of the Indian Head massive. 2 bolts (crux) lead to a 100' 5.8 crack. Walk off.
- Wet Behind, Dry Wallet 5.10c**
- Oz Area Hollywood Boulders Climb up past around 7 bolts on the biggest of the Hollywood Boulders. Faces West. Anchor on top. Excellent climb.
- God Speed 5.10-*
- 3 bolts to anchor. Behind Marsupial Lust ( which is behind Lesbian Lust). Oz Area
- Re-Todd Gore-dumb 5.10-*
- 5 bolt climb on boulders abouve the wash on the right as you hike into Oz main wash. Can be seen from the road. On the first boulder you see as you enter the wash . 2 bolts on top. An easier climb (Gorehole 5.6) has been climbed to the right.
- Dinky 5.7
- Located just east of Re-Todd Gore-dumb. 1 bolt on small slab. Crack at start.
- Sinking the Bismark 5.10a*
- 5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor, on large boulder (The Bismark) about 1/2 mile west of Hen House. This group of boulders lies between the Zebra Cliffs and the Hen House and climbs the east face of the largest boulder.
- Screw The Pooch 5.8*
- 2 or 3 bolts to anchor Located to the right of Sinking the Bismark There is a 2 bolt climb on another boulder to the right (north) and on the north side of the boulder (rating unknown)
- Peacoat Sleve 5.10b*
- 5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Zebra Cliffs Area Located right of Bad Brains (5.9)
- Baby Tool 5.10b*
- This climb is in the group of rock formations east of the Hen House (Dr. Haney's Tool Shed Area). Baby Tool climbs up large plates (slings on plates for pro), then to a headwall past 3 bolts (2 bolt anchor). The route is in a cove in the NE most formations and faces South.
- Proper B. T. 5.10b**
- This excellent route climbs past 5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. It is located on the west end of the rock formation east of the Hen House (Dr. Haney's Tool Shed). The route faces west and is just left of a finger-shaped spire.
- I'm Not a Doctor, But I'll Have a Look 5.8
- This route climbs up the bumpy face left of Proper B. T., past 2 bolts, then follows a crack to the top. The crack on either side of this face have been climbed also and are around 5.6/5.7.
- Bumpus Hell 5.9
- 4 or 5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The route ascents "bumps" on a pitted face at Dr. Haney's Tool Shed Area ( Formations E. of Hen House). This route face south and is in the southern Area of the formations.
- Dr. Haney 5.8*
- 3 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Dr. Haney's Tool Shed Area. SE of the formations. Goes up SW edge of a large dark boulder.
- Broke Back Burke 5.8
- Dr. Haney's Tool Shed Area (Formations East of the Hen House) Faces North, has a couple of bolts, and some natural Gear. First bolt is sort of high. 2 bolts on top.
- Fugly 5.10c
- 4 or 5 bolts lead to a 2 bolt anchor. Located on a small formation facing the Hen House Area. Route Faces south. Route climbs on gritty rock and black intrusions.
- Oral Sturgeon 5.10b*
- Up at the Beluga Boulders (Top of the mountain above The Bond Boulders), over on the left is a very obvious spliter crack (faces east). start with and O W crack, then splitter hands, then gritty hands over a roof ( crux). No fixed anchor on top, no fixed gear on the climb.
- Urdu 5.9**
- 5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Beluga Boulders Area. Located on largest Boulder . Route faces East. This climb is easy to find as it is the first boulder you come to. The face to the right has been top roped (5.11-)
- Eat Beluga 5.9*
- 3 or 4 bolts (some gear) to a 2 bolt anchor. Route faces north and is in the northern most boulders at the top of the hill, above the Bond Boulders at Split Rock Area.
- Bird Eating Spider 5.8**
- Cool climb on arete. South facing on large boulder between Beluga Boulders and Morongo Man.. Can be seen from Split Rocks Parking Lot. 4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.
- I Eat Crayons 5.8
- 2 bolts (bolted anchor on top) Elf's Hat Magic Mountian Area N. Arete
- More than One Way to Skin a Cat 5.10-*
- Far left side of Peta Crag. 5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Goes over a small roof.....Starts up the rock a ways.
Coxcomb Mountains
- Pope in a Box 5.10b
- Has a few bolts and some trad gear. 2 bolt anchor (Picture and map to follow)
- Connected at the Liver 5.10- (TR)
- To the left of above route
- Compromised 5.10+*
- Located on Becky's Buttress, left of Road Dogs 8 bolts to anchor
The Tiger Rock/Bond Boulders Area
Vogel p. 467 Bartlett p. 59This is a good place to climb for a number of reasons.
- It's a sunny, south facing climbing area.
- The approach takes 20-30 min. (not bad).
- There are a bunch of climbs here, ranging from 5.7 to 5.12.
- Some of the routes are very good.
- This area has a very wilderness feel, is fairly isolated, and sees few visitors. Even when there are others climbing here, there are plenty of climbs for everyone.
- There are some pure sport climbs, which require quick-draws only.
The Devil's Butthole *, 5.10-
4 bolt face to 2 bolt anchor. This route is located on a very large boulder up a ridge of boulders about 1/4 mile before the Bond Boulders. The "butthole" is a small black pocket part way up the route. South facing.
Matt Gay **, 5.9
This route climbs bolts on the left side of the front Bond Boulder. It is located left of Live and Let Die , 5.10d. It has it's own set of anchors, and needs only Q.D.s for protection. From the anchors of Matt Gay, you can scramble over to TR Live and Let Die, and Diamonds are Forever. To approach this climb you need to climb around (and on! a small tree at the base. This is a good, enjoyable route. Please respect the tree.
Eva Las Vegas ***, 5.10-
This climbs the left edge of the back (2nd Bond Boulder), and is located left of the route RCA. This is a very good route, has good protection, and it's own set of anchors (with a surprise?. One of the best climbs at the Bond Boulders. Quick Draws only. From the anchors, you can scramble over to top rope RCA.
God, Guns, and Guts, 5.6 PG/R
This route starts same as RCA, and traverses the dike to the far right side of the rock. One bolt. Scramble up to RCA anchors.
Odd Job , 5.10a
Bartlett Pinto Basin P 59Located on the backside of the rock in front of the first Bond boulder.
Moonraker , 5.10 R/X
Bartlett P59Located on the backside of the first Bond Boulder.
Loose Man **, 5.9+/5.10-
This climb is located behind and right of the Bond Boulders. Short crack start to a bolted face. 4 or 5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. This is a good climb.
How Deep is Ben's Love, 5.10 b/c
3 bolt face to 2 bolt anchor. Q.D.s only. This and the next 2 climbs are located on large boulders right of the Bond Boulders.
Teflon Ron , 5.8
This short climb is located right of Ben Gay and has a bolt and 1 fp to a 2 bolt anchor. There is an unfinished face climb on the front of this boulder. It has a few bolts.
Ben Gay, 5.9
This is the bombay chimney right of How Deep is... Find the "secret" footholds or it's a lot harder than 5.9. Rappel from Teflon Ron anchors (off right)
Bad Cop Rock
These next 6 routes are on the Bad Cop Rock . B.C.R. is located behind and left of the first Bond Boulder.Wife Beater *, 5.7
This is the farthest left route. 3 bolts. Very short.
Reach Around Cop , 5.8
One bolt, 2 fp , 2 bolt anchor.
Bad Cop, No Donut , 5.9+
Crack to bolt. After the bolt, do a difficult traverse left into Reach Around Cop. Not a good route.
Copulator , 5.9+
Thin crack to a bolt. Traverse left at the top. Not a very good route.
The Bad Lieutenant **, 5.7
2 fp and 4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Q.D.s only. This is a fun route with lots of pro for the timid leader (i.e. over-protected.
Copper Penny , 5.11 b/c
Very Difficult TR on the face right of Bad Lieutenant. This rout e was first top roped by George Armstrong and the late Jose Pereya.
Iron Chief *, 5.9
Bolted face left (and around corner) from Quasar. I enjoyed this climb, although I've heard differently from others. Climb it yourself and then you can figure it out for yourself.
Deep, Shallow and Twisted *, 5.10c
Bartlett p. 59This climb had bad bolts. They have been replaced.
Split Rocks Area
The Potato Gun *, 5.10+
3 bolts up a block. This climb is very close to the Split Rocks Parking area (SE of Over-bolted Rock. The formation (The Tiki looks like a Tiki). The route is on the NW face.
Bumpy *, 5.8+/5.9
This is the original "Bumpy" route. It is located just right of Over bolted Rock. It is easily seen from Split Rocks parking (look right). Follow "bumps" past 4 bolts (or fixed angles in holes, to a 2 bolt anchor). Walk off to the right, down a ramp in a chimney.)
Gynogroove , 5.6
Chimney left of Bumpy.
Nuptial Sac , 5.10+5.11-
This gritty route climbs steep bumps, a crack and a very gritty face past bolts to a fixed anchor. One cam needed in the crack. This climb is located right of Bite Me (see Bartlett p. 50 and faces away from the parking lot.
Sabina , 5.8+
This is the crack climb on a boulder just So. of Butt Nugget 2000. It has one bolt and a rap anchor.
Butt Nugget 2000 *, 5.10b
Climb up a flake past 6 bolts to a bolted anchor. This is located on the pointed tower on the right just before Brits Corridor. Just right off the trail.
Like it or Lumb It , 5.10-
Up a wide crack (past a big black knob), up a crack/ramp, to 2 bolts on a steep face. The formation. (The Lump, is on the right as you approach Isles in the Sky. (Rubicon is to the Left). It is the obvious formation with the "window" as seen from the parking lot. 2 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
Lucus Polucus*, 5.7
This climb now has 5 bolts, and the bottom section is no longer runout. The new bolt was added by the first ascent party. This climb is on a tower-like formation in the next canyon past (south of Brits Corridor.) The route is obvious and faces south. Rap off the back from anchors on top.
Son of Bumpy, 5.7, Bumpy's Cousin, 5.7
Both climbs go up a series of unusual "bumps". Both go to the same anchor (2 drilled anchors), and both are protected by 3 drilled angles each. Son of Bumpy is the left one. Q.D.s only. Routes face away from the parking lot. They are on the "backside " of a formation. This formation can be found by going to the right when you reach the big open area in front of Isles in the Sky. Look to the right, and you'll see a while formation with a circular while dike on it's top. It's on the backside of this and approached from the left.
Pinkie and the Brain** , 5.8+
This much talked about climb is written up in Bartlett's Pinto Basin guide as George's TR , 5.10. It is now a lead climb, and takes a slightly different (and easier line than George's TR., going left for the top section. This is a fun and well-protected climb. 8 or so bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Q.D.s only. I like this climb a lot although some people find the loose plates irritating.
Oz Area
Dirty Wood , 5.8
3 bolt face on the right side of Hmmmmmm Boulder. Right of the climb Ohhhh. 2 bolt anchor Vogel p. 502-503 Bartlett p. 79
Munchkinland (Oz)
Bee Bypass, 5.6 R/X
Vogel P. 491 Bartlett Pinto p. 69Chimney right of There's No Place Like Home.
Ring Stinger , 5.8 R
Vogel p. 491; Bartlett Pinto p. 69Face left of The Answer
A Trip to the Tip , 5.9
Vogel p. 503 Bartlett Pinto p. 802 bolt face to crack across from Lesbian Lust.
Marsupial Lust* , 5.10-
Vogel p. 502-503 Bartlett Pinto p. 79Bolted face located just behind Lesbian Lust Boulder Bolted anchor on top Q.D.s only.
Lesbian Lust Rightside Arête **(name? , 5.9+/5.10-
Another(!) line of bolts, right of the arête. A little bit harder and steeper than the original line .
Split Rocks
Dead Bees** , 5.9+
has been retro-bolted (by the first ascent team) and is no longer R/X. It is now safe and an excellent lead.
Celebrated Beast * , 5.8
This is the arête left of Dolphin. 1 fp, 3 bolts.
Hen House
Vogel p. 442-443 Bartlett Pinto p. 37-38Buttered Chicken *, 5.10 b/c
This is a left to right traversing crack . Finishes on Ruffled Rooster.
John's Giggly Bum Cheeks * , 5.8+
3 bolt face below Ruffled Rooster. SW face 2 bolt anchor.
Chicken Poop * , 5.8+
Face left of Chicken Coop. 3 bolt face/arête up to the ledge of Epperson Boulder.
Eggshell * , 5.8
2 bolt face right of Epperson's Footprints.
Yolk, 5.6
1 bolt to sling anchors. Formation right of Ruffled Rooster. Route is on the back of this formation . This climb faces Hen Pecked Boulder Routes.
Live Oak Picnic Area
Lumberjack , 5.10
This novel route ascends a tree, then past 3 bolts to the top. Route is on the East Face, and is on a boulder just east of the eastern most parking spot. Look for the tree. Vogel p. 450 Bartlett Pinto p. 34.
Cottonwood Area
There are no climbs in Al's or Randy's Guides from the Cottonwood Area. There is not much climbable rock in this area (near the road, anyways.... but way, way back in the mountains.....,anyways.. The exception is this area, The Butterbags Buttress Area. These are great, fun routes in a very beautiful, out-of -the- way, sunny area. They are at a lower elevation, and south facing, so a winter visit would be best. The Salton Sea is visible from the top of this crag. This crag is visible from the road off to the east, about half way between Cottonwood Campground and Interstate 10. (You can' miss it. 30 min. approach up a beautiful sandy wash, then up a rather steep hill.Love Bubbles**, 5.7
8 bolt face up the main buttress (Butterbags Buttress). Located on the right side of the hillside. Excellent.
Babaloos **, 5.9+
6 bolt arête , 1fp up and left of Butterbags Buttress.
Baby Pillows**, 5.10c
3 bolts to thin crack (2 fp) , Located left of Babaloos.
Chimneys
2 or 3 chimneys/cracks have been done left of the Butterbags Buttress. (Ask Tucker Tech.
Other Pinto Basin
Halloweenis*, 5.10 b/c
Vogel p. 435; Bartlett Pinto Basin p. 9This formation is located north of Jumbo Rocks corridor and west of Teepee Rock. It faces south and is a large tiered right-facing corner protected by bolts and fixed gear. There is no anchor on top, so you can simul-rap off or do a grainy, dicey 5th class descent to the north. This climb was originally protected by pitons, but the pins were removed after the 1st ascent. It has since been retro-bolted and now has 5 bolts and 3 pins for protection. Please leave the fixed pins. Removing fixed pins is stealing and makes a climb dangerous for others.
Kidney Boy, 5.9
Vogel p. 439; Bartlett Pinto Basin p. 15This gritty face climb ascends the south face of a big boulder/clump that sits in front of the east face of the Zebra Cliffs. After a bouldery star (off a boulder!), it ascends grainy rock past bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Fun moves, poor rock.